Sapzurro, Colombia

We have stumbled upon another paradise.   Sapzurro is the closest village (if that is what it is to be defined as) to the Panamanian border (it is actually the most Northern city in South America come to find out).  There are no cars, and therefore, no roads in this town, just meandering footpaths sometimes consisting of wood planks laid over puddles and streams.  After hearing from many travelers along the way how amazing the San Blas Islands are we decided on this route into Panama.  We were told that boats regularly leave from Cartagena (which we did not necessarily want to return to) and Sapzurro bound for the San Blas region and ending in Panama.  Getting to Sapzurro was an adventure in and of itself.  We could have spent a few hundred to fly from Medellin to Capurgana which is only a 10 minute boat ride from Sapzurro but we decided on the more economical and adventurous route consisting of a 9 hour ‘red eye’ bus ride from Medellin to Turbo then a 2 hour boat ride in the morning to Capurgana and a further, smaller boat to Sapzurro.  While stopped in Capurgana we had a look around.  There are a number of things I have noticed about Towe since we started travelling together (actually I think I have known these things all along but they became very apparent while on the road).  For one, he walks very fast.  I thought I was a fast walker but he walks with a mission that makes me struggle to keep up.  The other, and more important thing while on the road, is that he has a knack for judging people.  He seems to know, sometimes without even talking to a person, whether they are good or bad.  More than once on this voyage he has gleened pertinent information from complete strangers that are to be trusted and steered us clear of others who would waste our time.  In Capurgana, Towe used that sense and his friendly nature to make friends with a very cool and well connected man in town.  He took us to the dive guy where we gathered details on our planned dive then showed us the best restaurants in town then offered us cheap rooms at his house.  We had already decided that Sapzurro was our final destination, at least for the night, and he graciously recommended a place to stay there.  How fortunate were we to have been pointed in the direction of Lucho ‘the chucero’ and Gloria.

We never would have found this amazing place had we not been told to go there.  There is no sign signally a hotel within the gates, in fact there is no sign at all.  Lucho and Gloria live slightly up the hill from the beach with a great view of the bay on an amazing piece of property.  We are their only guests and they have been the most gracious hosts we could ask for.  It is for that reason, and a few others, that we are still here 1 week later!  There is one place in town that has the internet (which we have only used once to handle important business and let a few loved ones know we haven’t disappeared into the abyss), there is one pool hall (which seems to be the only place people congregate outside of church) and there are not really any ‘restaurants’ per say.  The fact is that Gloria graciously offered to cook us any meals we wanted, using only the finest ingrediants.  Nearly all the food we have eaten since arriving here is from their property, or from the ocean.  Breakfast consists of fruit salad (mango, pineapple, banana and a few other fruits that only exist here in Colombia), half an avocado for each of us, eggs with amazing home-grown herbs and a homemade aripa (basically thick corn tortilla).   Lunch and or dinner consists of soup then a plate consisting of coconut rice, patacones (think big potato chip made with unsweet banana), salad and fish.  Oh yeah, and our half avocado.  They have the largest avocado tree I have ever seen that is bursting with fruit.  Actually all their fruit trees are bursting but this one is of special interest to Towe and I as we both have a huge crush on avocado.  Our room is directly in front of the tree and on more than one occasion (actually a few times a day), we hear one detach from the tree and fall with a thud, proceeded by an applause by us for we know that avocado will be served with our next meal.  They are the juicest, most delicious avocados that either of us have ever tasted which says a lot considering our affinity for these treats of nature.

All in all we will have spent just over a week here.  Most days are spent lounging about with adventures mixed in along with meals.  We have done hikes to the ridges surrounding the bay, runs along the beach for exercise and many walks through town just to see what we can find. 

One day we went diving and had an amazing experience.  It was only the two of us with the dive instructor and we mentioned our desire to see sharks.  On our first dive he took us to a spot that always has sharks and led us on an amazing underwater voyage.  The water is so warm that we were without wetsuits which made for an even ‘free-er’ experience.  We saw a beautiful spotted ray gliding through the water then came upon two Nurse sharks.  Towe and I were beside ourselves with excitement at being about 15 feet from them.  The second dive did not reveal anything amazing although the first dive was practically impossible to top. 

One night we went on an adventure to see the turtles lay their eggs on the beach.  This happens only once a year in specific places, one of which happens to be a 45 minute boat ride from Sapzurro.  Since the laying is all done at night our boat did not depart until 8PM.  The ride was insane as the ocean was a super choppy and it started to rain.  All we could do was sit there and patiently wait until we were told that we had arrived.  Once there we unloaded and walked for about 30 minutes through town to the beach where the turtles were located.  Now I didn’t know what to expect and thought that the beach would be lined with turtles but that was definetly not the case.  We were lead along the beach for a bit then told to sit and wait (in the rain as it had began again) while our guides went in search of them.  It wasn’t until we saw flashes down the beach that we realized one had been sighted.  It was amazing.  It was beautiful.  It was actually worth the horrible boat ride and drenching water to see (but Towe might disagree).  The turtle was at least 5 feet long and huge.  It looked like a dinosaur and we all crowded around to watch it.  After about 20 minutes of watching, the turtle made its way back to the ocean and we continued our walk for more.  Exhausted, and mostly satisfied, we went back to the boat for our long and wet ride home.    

We finally found a boat that could take us through the San Blas islands but it wasn’t leaving for another few days so we stayed in Sapzurro for longer than expected but had no problems with that.  We planned a triathlon one day and spent a whole afternoon trying to figure out which order and which route would be best.  We started with a run then kayaked to a beach from which we swam a whole-hell-of-a lot further than I expected then got back on the kayak and rolled out to the center of the bay to relax and enjoy ourselves.  Super chevere!  Super chiba!! 

Unfortunately we found out that the boat was delayed another few days so we took our hosts offer of a boat ride across the border and decided to island hop through the San Blas.  We had a real problem getting the funds together as neither town has an atm.  We found a hotel that would draw off our cards and pay us in pesos, after taking a hefty commission, then we had to change the pesos to dollars, another commission, at a restaurant, all resulting in us having little US dollars and an unknown route ahead of us.

We woke early on our last day, had our last breakfast, bid farewell to our amazing new Colombian mother and hopped on our boat bound for Puerto Obaldia in Panama where we would either just jump a plane to Panama City and save the islands for the next round or jump a boat and gitty-up.

Cali and Medellin, Colombia

We arrived in Cali late in the evening and went straight to a hostel that had been recommended.  The following day we took my friend Ken's advice and went for a day trip to Park Nirvana.  The park wasn't in the book but that just added to the fun.  We started on a bus in town to the main bus terminal which was an adventure then the 45 min bus to a small town outside of Cali called Palmira.  Unfortunatly the bus went passed the city without dropping us off but the guys were so nice they pulled over on the side of the road, flagged a bus going the other way and put us on it.  Once on that bus everyone, literally everyone, on the bus was helping us figure out how to get to the park. We got dropped in town and a guy actually walked us over to the right street then told a woman waiting for the same bus to make sure we got on.  Wasn't actually a bus though but a Chiva which is kinda like a bus but Colombia style and I have been wanting to ride on one since I arrived...FIRST CHIVA RIDE!!  That was about 40 minutes into thejungle where we were dropped off basically in front of the park.  Ken had said they serve great lunch so we went straight to the restaurant for the special, rainbow trout, which is farmed on site.  There was no one in that park and we asked about it.  The guy said on the weekends it is packed with people so it was cool to have it literally all to ourselves.  We hiked up to the amazing vista and explored the beautiful flora and fauna then had to head out as they were closing and we still had to figure our way home.  To get from the park back to the small town we hitched a ride on a moto...both of us on one..I was on the tail bumping my ass pretty hard and we were all laughing.  Then we were loaded into the back of a pickup truck with 15 other adults (think sardines in a can) and taken to a different town.  We weren't sure where to go once we got there so 3 of the guys from our truck ride walked us to the correct corner and told us which bus to take.  Then another woman helped us actually locate the bus.  Everyone in these towns were so friendly it was so nice and cool.  Then we finally got back to Cali and took a cab to our hostel.  Such a great adventure!!

That night we had our first salsa lesson.  It was 5 guys and the teacher who was really nice and cool.  He showed us all the basic moves.  When we finished both Towe and I were dripping sweat and ready to practice our moves!  Later that evening we were picked up by Ken's cousin-in-law, Christian, and his friend.  They took us out on the town which was really fun.  We started with beers at the mall then headed to a massive salsa mega club.  This place was HUGE!  We were escorted to a booth then brought two bottles of Aguardiente.  Ok, here was our chance to really get the taste of it.   After a couple shots each we started dancing.  It was a new and interesting experience for me.  When a song comes on you can just walk by and tap a girl on the shoulder and then head to the dance floor to meet for a dance.  When the song ends it is not mixed and there is actually a break for people to walk back to their seats.  Towe had predicted that if we went out with these guys we would wind up at a strip club and he was exactly right.  Late in the evening, at the club, two stripers (one of each sex) got up on stage and did their thing.  We left that club and went to another which was far more shady.  By that time we were all pretty toasty and we decided to bounce home.  The following day we realized the downside of Aguardiente.  Both Towe and I were completely hungover for most of the day and just lounged about the hostel feeling bad for ourselves.  That night we went for an early dinner of tapas and crashed.

Being that we were asleep early on Friday, we were up Saturday around 8AM feeling brand new.  We decided to walk up to the zoo as we had heard good things about it.  The zoo was super cool.  The monkeys were amazing and they had a bunch of different species.  They also had two condors which I have never seen that close and a very cool enclosed butterfly garden. It was well worth the 5 bucks to enter.  After the zoo we walked back to our hostel just in time for the free salsa lesson.  This was a new teacher and we definetly learned different dance moves than the first guy.  This was more of a jazzercise thing with us bouncing and waving our hands around.  It was all guys in the class and I think the teacher liked making us do all these wierd moves just to watch us...it was funny and a great workout. After jazzercise we went to our favorite lunch spot that serves a set meal for 3 bucks...and it is quality food. 

I forgot to mention that on Saturday before we went out to salsa, Towe and I went to the casino where Towe watched me gamble for a bit and DOUBLE UP!!  WHOOOOOPPP!!!   So yesterday we wound up hanging with the couple all day we had met in Tayrona Park a few weeks earlier.  They picked us up and took us to the Jewish Country Club outside of town.  It was sooooo relaxing.  We went for a walk and wound up walking in the golf course that was empty.  Their favorite place for a nap is the green on a hole in the back of the course so we stopped and all layed down on the soft grass.  Then we had an amazingly good and cheap meal then headed up to the pool and I got a massage.

We flew from Cali to Medellin but only for 24 hours and on a Monday.  It was on the way, we had friends there and we wanted to see the town so we stopped.  It was great to meet up with our travelling friends and we took the opportunity to have a nice dinner and walk around the happening part of town.  Being Monday and rainy, it was slow but we did have some fun at a shot bar.  They had all kinds of wigs and hats to wear.  We ended the night with beers on the roof of our hostel.  The following day we walked around the touristy parts of Medellin and did all we could given the bad weather and lack of time.  I definetly want to return to Medellin when I have more time as I can tell this city has a lot to offer.

Taganga, Colombia

We arrived to Taganga 1 week ago today but it feels like we now have a new home.  The town is known for cheap SCUBA certification and we thought it might be a good place for Towe to get his and me to get few dives.  We arrived Saturday and went to a place from the book only to find that it had been closed for 2 years apparently...hmmmmm.  On our walk to the next spot a guy walked up and asked if we needed directions.  We were heading to Devanga hostel and he said he had a spot right around the corner from it that we might want to check out too.  We looked at both and decided on Hugo's place.  He has such a chill vibe and beautiful spot.  There are two other Canadian girls here and the 5 of us are all roomates now.  We make meals together, drinks and lounge together.  Last Saturday the main club in Taganga called Sensacion was really fun.  After the heat of the cramped dancefloor at La Puerta, the open dancefloor overlooking the bay was very refreshing.  We have spent a lot of the last week lounging in the hammocks on the second floor of the house.  It has an amazing view and gets a great breeze.  There are many great beaches in the area that are short hikes along the coast from town.  Everyone in this town is very laid back and friendly.  We are now friends with the local tienda guy and many of the locals that hang on their porches during the heat of the day.

During our visit in Taganga we decided to head into Tayrona National Park for a few days in the jungle and on the beach.  We were thinking two nights and 3 days there but wound up coming back on the second day and skipping the second night due to the police presence and unwelcoming feeling.  You will have to ask me about our police interactions over beers but suffice it to say, shit was weak.  The park was beautiful though and the hammocks were very comfortable.  The weather wasn't beautifully sunny but the low hanging clouds made for an excellent jungle feel.  I have heard rave reviews about Tayrona and would want to give it another chance.

Back in Taganga we did a night dive and a lot more relaxing.  We have found the best restaurants and had some amazing food.  Seriously, some days just revolve around lounging in the hammocks with books, etc and then walking out for a meal.  Yesterday was our last day so we all decided to grab some fresh fish and have a picnic at one of the smaller, private beaches.  It was gourmet fish tacos with lettuce as the wrap, fresh avocado, tomato and spice.  So amazing.  We have been scoring the most amazing avocados from this guy that walks around with a basket on his head yelling 'aguacate!'  We are all hooked and have been known to eat it straight with a spoon (and a little salt n pepper).  The most creamy delicousness.

Today we leave for Cali and will probably head straight to the ruins in San Augustin but......we will see!!

Update:  We went to the airport today and could not check in.  We finally realized that I had booked the tickets for tomorrow actually and not today......so back to Hugo's for the night.  Wow, maybe I was a bit too relaxed!!

Columbia!

I am sitting here watching the most amazing sunsest from the second floor of a wooden hut in Taganga, Colmubia.  Pretty amazing.  I'm actually at a place that is significantly more than a little hut and it belongs to a very cool guy named Hugo.  I should probably start by telling you how we got here.  It all started back in Bogota where Towe and I flew in the same day to meet up.  It was a gloomy Sunday and also the day before a major holiday but we managed to meet up at the specified hostel which had been recomended.  It was great to see him and have a chat about all the things back home and adventures.  Since Monday was a holiday we were only able to get into the art museum which houses many Botero pieces.  It was very cool but the city was very wierd.  The streets were empty, the plazas were empty and all the restaurants were closed.  We then took the elevator up to the church on the hill but basically ended up in the clouds with not much of a view.  We did have our first Aguardiente up there which is basically an black licorice type alcohol.  That afternoon it started to rain very hard and then hale for a moment.  I didn't realize the alititude of Bogota and that the weather would be this way.  I was ready for heat and so was Towe.  We decided at that moment to fly to Cartagena the following day and get to a beach on the Carribean coast as soon as possible.  We finished the day with a little research at a local brewery.  Nothing too exciting to report. 

We got up early the next morning to see the Gold Museum which is highly recomended.  Both museums are actually but this one is astonishing.  It was on the walk there and back when we realized there really was a pulse in the city.  People were out, shops were open and the plazas had things happening.  I felt like we saw the sites of Bogota but didn't really get to experience the people.  It was nice but we had no problem once we landed in Cartagena.

The weather was warm and a little humid but felt great after the cold of Bogota.  We went to a recomended hostel which happened to be amazing due to the rooftop patio, pool and vibe.  After check-in we dropped our bags and explored the old city within the old walls.  It was very cool colonial and european feeling.  There is a ceviche spot that Anthony Bourdain visited while here so we decided to check out.  It was obviously ridiculously expensive now but well worth it.  Very expensive but amazingly delish ceviche.  Such a light flavor with dill and mint.  The evening was mellow around town.  We checked a few places but not much was going on.  There is also a seedy side of Cartagena with people selling their goods on many streets, especially later in the evening.  There was also a pretty serious police presence though so I never really felt too threatened.

Since the week was early we decided to head out to Playa Branca and hang on the beach for a few.  This is a beach near Cartagena that most people only visit for the day to swim and enjoy but there are several places you can rent tents that are fully equipped or hammocks.  We rented hammocks at a very cool spot and immidiatly fell into the slow rythm of the beach life. Those days were filled with peace and tranquility.  We would always get great rest in the hammocks then wake up to breakfast and a walk or swim then lounging in the sun, maybe snorkeling or maybe playing cards....just totally enjoying the beautiful water and beach.  No internet and most meals cooked over a wood stove.  Needless to say, by the time we left 4 days later we had become friends with the whole beach community.  We bounced back to Cartagena but decided to push on directly to Santa Marta for the Saturday night festivities. The boat to the taxi to the two buses to the other taxi was exhausting but we ended in Santa Marta and got ready to see the nightlife.  The clubs recomended both in the books and by friends were by far the best.  We went straight to La Puerta and didn't leave till the end of the night.  Great spot with a crowded small dancefloor and back patio.

Saturday we decided to check out the small village outside of Santa Marta called Toganga......that was 1 week ago!