For at least the last few weeks I have been feeling like I am exactly where I should be. Things are happening all around me and the cycle of positive energy is twirling my body to the current, making me shake my hips and nod my head all day and most of the night!! I arrived to Santiago and picked a hostel out of the book that was in a cool neighborhood and seemed decent. Understatement of the century. The hostel is the coolest I have been to thus far with free pool table, tv/millions of movies, internet, foosball and rooftop patio. I immidiatly made friends who all told me that the thing to do is grab some beers from the Botilleria and hang on the roof...so of course that is what I did. Hostal Bellavista is located in the Bellavista barrio which is billed as the trendy, dare I say hipster, neighborhood. There is so much street art and every evening the main drag is filled with red chairs and loads of people eating completos (hotdogs) and drinking Escudo (local lager beer). My first night was somewhat mellow as we just chilled on the roof and had a few cold ones then retired around 3AM which is amazingly early for Chileanos.
The following morning I was up for the free breakfast then decided to march up the hill to the Virgin Mary for a view of the city, a little exercise and some conversation. I rolled with Paul aka North Paul (as there are two) from England. Super cool dude. Upon returning to the hostel I bumped into Ben (from New York but living in Barcelona) who was heading out to a few museums and of course I wanted to go! First museums for me on the trip and I was excited. The first was free and my favorite installation was photos of the street art which is pretty funny since you can basically get the same just walking down the streets. The second museum was more modern and my favorites there was a Warhol and another Warhol-esk. Then we stopped for lunch and headed up another smaller hill more in the center of the city. Needless to say, I was in desperate need of a siesta and easily fell asleep after half a page of my new book. I just traded for One Flew Over the Cuckoos Nest and since I havent seen the movie I get to paint the picture in my head aside from Jack Nicholson who is the perfect character.
I woke up at the perfect moment as Ben was just heading out for dinner with two Finnish girls who are studying in Santiago. We were going for a nice meal which was the first for me. OH my goodness the salad was delicous and so was the wine and so was the conversation. Such a cool group of people at this hostel. Post dinner we grabbed some brews and went to the rooftop. There is a very colorful character at the hostel named Storm who is about 50 and drinks all day. He was wasted on White Russians and invited himself to the club with us. Right before we were about to leave he turned to our small circle and was about to say how drunk he was when he smashed his face down on the table....ay carumba!! Dude split his head open. Good thing North Paul is a doctor so he did what he could given the limited supplies and we headed out for a little dancing. Allen, a Bostonian that has been living in Santiago for a while was rolling with us too which made for a great posse. The first spot called Concepcíon had a hefty cover so we went to another spot but that had a cover too. As we were heading back to Concepcíon we ran into a street guy I had met both nights while grabbing beer and he was like ´no, just roll with me and I will get you in for free´...The cover dissappeared and so did we into the club. More reggaeton which I like but decided that I was going to take a break from it and find some other music the next days which turned out to be easier than I thought. The night ended with a small group on the roof, one playing a guitar and all laughing a lot. I got up the next morning and headed to Valpairiso. The plan was to do one day in Valpo then a day in Viña then back to Santiago for the weekend but that has all changed. Wait till you hear about Valpairiso.......One evening, one full day and so much done in Santiago.
Thursday, February 24, 2011
Monday, February 21, 2011
San Pedro and Iquique, Chile!!
All the things I heard about Chile prior to arriving are true. The landscape is beautiful, the beaches are beautiful, the weather is beautiful but it is also a bit expensive and the people speak another language! I arrived to San Pedro from Bolivia and felt as if I had stepped back to the Wild West somewhere near El Paso, Texas. Dirt streets and adobe with dry desert-like landscapes. My Chilean friends on the tour from Uyuni had warned me that Chile is the most expensive country in South America so I was only a bit surprised to find out that a dorm bed cost about $20 bones a night. I found a spot and dropped my bag then decided on the fly to not actually even stay the night and just catch a night bus to Iquique. I spent the day walking through the plazas and streets, checking out the churches, people and food. That night I grabbed the bus and after a 3 hour layover in Calama we arrived to Iquique at about 4:30AM. It was early and I hadn´t slept much so I was a bit delirious. The cool part was that my friends here in Iquique booked a hostel for me so I already knew where I was going. I grabbed a cab and made my way to Uma Jaqi. I arrived in the dark and had hardly an idea where I was in the city so after a nap, I headed out. This place is beautiful!!
Uma Jaqi is at the far end of Playa Cavancha which is the main tourist beach and also has a beautiful break. Our hostel happens to be the most popular surf hostel in town and the owner and staff are super cool. During my first day I strolled down the beach to the opposite end then had a delish lunch of shrimp with cheese empanada and the most fresh ceviche I have ever had. I guess there is a constant debate between Peruvians and Chileans as to who has the best Pisco and Ceviche. I have to say that the ceviche here is by far the best I have had in the world. I bought it at a fish market right on the water where they were cutting the fish and mixing it directly in front of me. Amazing. Later on in the afternoon I finally got ahold of Milton and he said he would be picking me up at 4 in front of my hostel. So the adventure began. Milton is one of the dudes I met in Cuzco and we had a blast there so that is the only reason I decided to come to Iquique. He swooped me up then we grabbed 3 more of his friends (one of which had a 4 month old English Bulldog named Maximo), a few beers and headed to a beach a little outside of town to chill and watch the sunset. All of his friends are super nice and cool and very friendly. We decided to try our luck at a club that night but first I said that I wanted to try my luck at the casino! I had noticed it earlier in the day and decided to give it a whirl. The guys were super funny. A few had never been to the casino and wanted to come watch me play so in the evening we went for some fun. I started with 85US and doubled in a little over an hour. They had told me that people who usually play there have no clue about the strategy so I took up the last seat in order to have a little more control on the dealer. At first it was just me and I was killing then a few people showed up and through off my game so I took it to the roulette table...and hit a few birthdays!! Back to blackjack and when I had doubled, I walked. That is the hardest part because when you are winning then you want to keep the streak going and when you are losing you want to earn your money back so walking away is virtually impossible.
That night at the club was hilarious. It was packed and I think I was the only gringo in there. Super hot on the dance floor with barely any room to move and it didn´t really get going until 2AM. Needless to say it was a long night but Mattias (one of Milton´s homies) said he was going to pick me up the following morning at 11 for some fun. I didn´t really know what we had planned but he showed at exactly 11 and we headed back to his place. His cousins were coming to town and we were going to the beach. His whole family and me. It was so fun. His mother was so nice and they were all very friendly. She paid for us to go on the Banano and Cama which are floaties pulled behind a jetski. We were all screaming and flying all over the place. She also bought us some snacks (Churros that are hollow and filled with nutella....yum). After the beach we stopped by the market for some chicken and such then headed back to Mattias´ house for a dip in the pool and lunch! It was such a great day but I needed a siesta before heading out that night.
The siesta didn´t happen as I met some friends on the way back to my hostel and wound up back on the beach. You know that part I said earlier about how backpackers are always on the go and never relaxing...well that is not all true I guess. Iquique has been all about lounging in the sun and walking on the beach. Good exercise and beautiful but not exactly crazy engaging. That night we went to Diego aka Peen´s club called Murano. They have a great promotion there that if you show up early (before 1AM), you can buy a bottle of booze for less than it costs in the store and they give you mixers. So we sat and drank a bottle of rum then a bottle of pisco then hit the dancefloor. It was such a fun night and I made so many new friends. Near the end of the night I wound up in the VIP room on the top floor which was pretty sweet. The following day when I was talking to Ramon about it he said that he had been going to the club for 5 years and never been able to get into that VIP room! HA!! That night didn´t end until the sun came up so I spent the early part of the following day sleeping.
By that time Milton had left to go on a little trip but I was now friends with his friends and we were hanging on the regular. Ramon had a tennis tournament that day so I headed down to watch him play. He won!! Again, that evening I went back to my hostel for a siesta but was caught by friends prior to entering and taken to another beach at the North end of town to watch some surf and the sunset. Another beautiful sunset. Before heading back to the club that night I decided to try my luck at the casino again. I was channeling a good friend of mine who happens to have excellent luck at blackjack so I sat and started playing two hands at once. This time I started with 160US and doubled it!! OH SNAP!! This town is expensive but at this rate I was making money!!
The walk from my hostel to the other end of the beach (where the casino is) is amazing. There is a walking path and a biking path and tons of people are always out. During the night many artists set up their stands to sell trinkets and performers are out attracting crowds. We saw some great marionettes, break dancers and singers/bands. Also the street food is delish. I was having empanadas on the regular and also a refreshing drink called mote con huisillo which is a sweet drink with barley and a peach type fruit. Soooo good!! Also, the town has tons of great graffiti. You know you are in a cool town when there is lots of art and Iquique has it. Some great work all over the place. Also, on the other side of playa cavancha is another beach which has a huge skate park then a huge BMX park then a huge playground. Since the mountains come straight down to the ocean there isn´t much room for the town. Iquique is stretched along the beach with the mountains on one side and the water on the other. All 3 of the houses I went to had ocean views. The other wierd thing is that there are no trees. The mountains are sand and rocks making for excellent sandboarding and one of the best places to paraglide in the world...so obviously I signed up for that.
Also the language is interesting. I kept having to say to people that I speak and understand Spanish but not Chileano. They speak so fast and use so much slang that it doesn´t even sound like Spanish sometimes. I am always asking people to speak slower and without slang but am also learning some new words. Bakan Pro means really cool and people say Bakan aka cool all the time.
I was scheduled to paraglide in the morning but the wind was too strong so we changed it till the afternoon. I went back to the beach to watch a cool surf competition then had another shrimp n cheese empanada and some ceviche. SOOO GOOD!! I also finally got a siesta in! That evening we headed outside of town to float about. The place was packed with paragliders and we quickly geared up then had to hike up the mountain. I had imagined paragliding being very easy work but climbing a sand dune is exhausting and I was sweating my ass off by the time we reached the mid part. I strapped in and we took off only to find that there was not enough énergy´ in the wind and we basically just glided back down to the bottom of the hill. Óne more time´ my instructor said so again we hiked up the hill only to have the same issue. So I did paraglide for a second or two but not what we had planned which was a half hour ride around. Oh well, can´t have it all ya know! The evening was mellow and I went for sushi since all the seafood here has been amazing. Sushi, good! So good in fact that I ate and was ready for bed. Since it was my last night, I went to the beach one more time to chill with my new friends. This place is sooo nice and I really don´t want to leave. I have a strong feeling that if I ever come back to South America, I will be making a stop here. The good news is that I just found out a friend I met in SE Asia will be in Patagonia the same time I will so we are planning the W hike in Torres del Paine together which will be awesome.
I am now ready for my flight to Santiago where I plan to spend a week between there and Valpairso and Pina....so stay tuned!!
Uma Jaqi is at the far end of Playa Cavancha which is the main tourist beach and also has a beautiful break. Our hostel happens to be the most popular surf hostel in town and the owner and staff are super cool. During my first day I strolled down the beach to the opposite end then had a delish lunch of shrimp with cheese empanada and the most fresh ceviche I have ever had. I guess there is a constant debate between Peruvians and Chileans as to who has the best Pisco and Ceviche. I have to say that the ceviche here is by far the best I have had in the world. I bought it at a fish market right on the water where they were cutting the fish and mixing it directly in front of me. Amazing. Later on in the afternoon I finally got ahold of Milton and he said he would be picking me up at 4 in front of my hostel. So the adventure began. Milton is one of the dudes I met in Cuzco and we had a blast there so that is the only reason I decided to come to Iquique. He swooped me up then we grabbed 3 more of his friends (one of which had a 4 month old English Bulldog named Maximo), a few beers and headed to a beach a little outside of town to chill and watch the sunset. All of his friends are super nice and cool and very friendly. We decided to try our luck at a club that night but first I said that I wanted to try my luck at the casino! I had noticed it earlier in the day and decided to give it a whirl. The guys were super funny. A few had never been to the casino and wanted to come watch me play so in the evening we went for some fun. I started with 85US and doubled in a little over an hour. They had told me that people who usually play there have no clue about the strategy so I took up the last seat in order to have a little more control on the dealer. At first it was just me and I was killing then a few people showed up and through off my game so I took it to the roulette table...and hit a few birthdays!! Back to blackjack and when I had doubled, I walked. That is the hardest part because when you are winning then you want to keep the streak going and when you are losing you want to earn your money back so walking away is virtually impossible.
That night at the club was hilarious. It was packed and I think I was the only gringo in there. Super hot on the dance floor with barely any room to move and it didn´t really get going until 2AM. Needless to say it was a long night but Mattias (one of Milton´s homies) said he was going to pick me up the following morning at 11 for some fun. I didn´t really know what we had planned but he showed at exactly 11 and we headed back to his place. His cousins were coming to town and we were going to the beach. His whole family and me. It was so fun. His mother was so nice and they were all very friendly. She paid for us to go on the Banano and Cama which are floaties pulled behind a jetski. We were all screaming and flying all over the place. She also bought us some snacks (Churros that are hollow and filled with nutella....yum). After the beach we stopped by the market for some chicken and such then headed back to Mattias´ house for a dip in the pool and lunch! It was such a great day but I needed a siesta before heading out that night.
The siesta didn´t happen as I met some friends on the way back to my hostel and wound up back on the beach. You know that part I said earlier about how backpackers are always on the go and never relaxing...well that is not all true I guess. Iquique has been all about lounging in the sun and walking on the beach. Good exercise and beautiful but not exactly crazy engaging. That night we went to Diego aka Peen´s club called Murano. They have a great promotion there that if you show up early (before 1AM), you can buy a bottle of booze for less than it costs in the store and they give you mixers. So we sat and drank a bottle of rum then a bottle of pisco then hit the dancefloor. It was such a fun night and I made so many new friends. Near the end of the night I wound up in the VIP room on the top floor which was pretty sweet. The following day when I was talking to Ramon about it he said that he had been going to the club for 5 years and never been able to get into that VIP room! HA!! That night didn´t end until the sun came up so I spent the early part of the following day sleeping.
By that time Milton had left to go on a little trip but I was now friends with his friends and we were hanging on the regular. Ramon had a tennis tournament that day so I headed down to watch him play. He won!! Again, that evening I went back to my hostel for a siesta but was caught by friends prior to entering and taken to another beach at the North end of town to watch some surf and the sunset. Another beautiful sunset. Before heading back to the club that night I decided to try my luck at the casino again. I was channeling a good friend of mine who happens to have excellent luck at blackjack so I sat and started playing two hands at once. This time I started with 160US and doubled it!! OH SNAP!! This town is expensive but at this rate I was making money!!
The walk from my hostel to the other end of the beach (where the casino is) is amazing. There is a walking path and a biking path and tons of people are always out. During the night many artists set up their stands to sell trinkets and performers are out attracting crowds. We saw some great marionettes, break dancers and singers/bands. Also the street food is delish. I was having empanadas on the regular and also a refreshing drink called mote con huisillo which is a sweet drink with barley and a peach type fruit. Soooo good!! Also, the town has tons of great graffiti. You know you are in a cool town when there is lots of art and Iquique has it. Some great work all over the place. Also, on the other side of playa cavancha is another beach which has a huge skate park then a huge BMX park then a huge playground. Since the mountains come straight down to the ocean there isn´t much room for the town. Iquique is stretched along the beach with the mountains on one side and the water on the other. All 3 of the houses I went to had ocean views. The other wierd thing is that there are no trees. The mountains are sand and rocks making for excellent sandboarding and one of the best places to paraglide in the world...so obviously I signed up for that.
Also the language is interesting. I kept having to say to people that I speak and understand Spanish but not Chileano. They speak so fast and use so much slang that it doesn´t even sound like Spanish sometimes. I am always asking people to speak slower and without slang but am also learning some new words. Bakan Pro means really cool and people say Bakan aka cool all the time.
I was scheduled to paraglide in the morning but the wind was too strong so we changed it till the afternoon. I went back to the beach to watch a cool surf competition then had another shrimp n cheese empanada and some ceviche. SOOO GOOD!! I also finally got a siesta in! That evening we headed outside of town to float about. The place was packed with paragliders and we quickly geared up then had to hike up the mountain. I had imagined paragliding being very easy work but climbing a sand dune is exhausting and I was sweating my ass off by the time we reached the mid part. I strapped in and we took off only to find that there was not enough énergy´ in the wind and we basically just glided back down to the bottom of the hill. Óne more time´ my instructor said so again we hiked up the hill only to have the same issue. So I did paraglide for a second or two but not what we had planned which was a half hour ride around. Oh well, can´t have it all ya know! The evening was mellow and I went for sushi since all the seafood here has been amazing. Sushi, good! So good in fact that I ate and was ready for bed. Since it was my last night, I went to the beach one more time to chill with my new friends. This place is sooo nice and I really don´t want to leave. I have a strong feeling that if I ever come back to South America, I will be making a stop here. The good news is that I just found out a friend I met in SE Asia will be in Patagonia the same time I will so we are planning the W hike in Torres del Paine together which will be awesome.
I am now ready for my flight to Santiago where I plan to spend a week between there and Valpairso and Pina....so stay tuned!!
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Uyuni to the Salar de Uyuni to Chile!!!
I feel like I begin every entry with a Óh my god this is crazy´....or a ´what an amazing experience´ but this is exactly how I feel about my recent expedition. I arrived to Uyuni after an excrutiating 15 hour bus ride from La Paz. The weather made the already horrible roads even worse and the ´semi-camas´(partially reclining seats) hardly reclined at all. Thank goodness for legal sleeping aids! By the time I arrived to Uyuni it was already to late to get directly on a tour of the Salar to Chile so I had to stay the night. Accomodation proved to be ultra cheap and, instead of just relaxing for the day as the woman at the tour agency advised, I seized the day and headed out. I think that is a main difference between a person on holiday or vactationing and a backpacker. A backpacker is always trying to explore and see as much as possible. That is not to say that a day or two relaxing in a hammock is a waste of time but when there is limited time and so much to see the thought of ´just hanging out´seems worthless.
The only reason Uyuni is even on the map is because it is the entrance to the Salar so to say that it is a óne horse town´ is pretty right on. I decided to head out into the desert with my new friend Peter for some adventure. Pete and I had been on the same path oddly enough (or not) and took the opportunity to wander and chat together in the great expanse surrounding Uyuni. We first walked out to the ´train graveyard´about 2k from town. The walk was along the tracks and between the cemetary and town was open plains. The only sound was wind passing through all the plastic bags that littered the area. It was gross to see that much trash consuming the environment. It was also very real as we noticed people that appeared to be looking for something throughout the plain but, in fact, were using the bathroom. That is how they live here. Their adobe homes on the opposite side of the tracks have no toilet facilities and this is what they have been doing for generations. The train graveyard was eerily quiet. We were the only people there and meandered through the wreckage. I did a little graffiti in memory of a few peeps back home with a rock on some rusty parts of a train but other than that it was very peaceful and quiet. You could actually see nature reclaiming the man-made machines as rust overtook then decomposed the wreckage.
On the way back to town we caught an impromptu soccer match. It was 15 on 15 played on a huge dirt field (I guess you would call it that) chalk full of puddles, mud and ditches. No matter where I have been in the world, rich or poor, there is always room for a soccer pitch and people to play. This game truely is for everyone, everywhere. The evening and night passed uneventfully aside from the great conversation Pete and I had. He helped me realize so much and through our conversations I came to understand more than I realized was within me.
The following morning I was up bright and early for a solid breakfast then met up with my group for our 3 day/2 night tour. The group immidiatly clicked which was super awesome. There were 6 of us total. Wowster and his fiance Andrea from Holland are both family doctors and on short holiday. Then there was Mario and his girlfriend Daniella from Chile who are both studying to be doctors on a short holiday. Last was Phil, a Santa Barbara born kid who grew up in North Carolina and is currently living in La Paz working as a guide for the biking adventures. Super cool cat who said he signed up with the agency because he saw that there was another American already on board. We first headed to the train cemetary for a short visit then out to the Salar. This was incredible. The Salar is the largest dry salt lake bed in the world or something like that and in the winter is completely dry and white as far as the eye can see. Since this is the rainy season there was a few inches of water covering the entire plain. The reflection was beyond words and gave the most surreal perspective (please see photos). We drove right out into the middle for lunch and to take some photos then headed back through Uyuni on a 3 hour ride for our first night. We went to San Juan and stayed in a salt hotel which was really cool. Most of the entire building is made from salt bricks. The floor is salt, the tables are made from salt, the chairs...everything but the toilet and sink I guess. One other small group arrived for the night as well but they weren´t very friendly. It was an older couple who never smiled and smoked loads of cigarettes. We started taking bets on where they were from....´Germany´ Áustria´´Finland´...it was hilarous..at first. The only other cool thing about San Juan was the crypt. There were mud and brick mini-structures with holes for windows where you could look in and see a decomposed body in the fetal position with deteriorating clothes. Super eerie and super cool. Anyway, our group (later named Team Mayonesa due to the amount of mayonaise everyone would use during the meals) sat together and chatted the whole time. After dinner I taught the group how to play hearts then promptly lost to Phil (the only other person who knew the game prior). Phil and I shared a room and the other couples all had their own rooms. It was very nice.
The following morning we had a simple breakfast around 7:30 then headed out for a full day of sight seeing. The scenery out there is amazing and beyond words. Since it had rained the entire night before both groups decided to travel together. Within an hour the óther´group got stuck in mud. The two people, we later found out were in fact Germans, sat in the car while we piled out to help un-stick the vehicle. It was comical as we are all helping to get their car out while they sit in the back. It wasn´t until Wowster made a comment about whether they were comfortable or not that they finally got out of the vehicle to watch us work. After finally dislodging their vehicle, with no thanks from them, we were all back on track. We went passed several lagoons all having different minerals in them. This made for amazing colors and contrast. We also stopped by some impossibly formed volcanic rock structures and then finally stopped for lunch. There was tons of wildlife as well. We saw Vicunas which look like small llamas, llamas and even spotted a viscacha which looks like a rabbit with a squirrel tail. Post lunch we saw more amazing landscapes then finally arrived at Laguna Colorado. They are trying to make this one of the ´natural wonders of the world´and I can see why. It was breathtaking. Amazing colors mixed with colorful flamingoes mixed with llamas and the most amazing landscape. Mountains with snow surrounded us as we were at about 4,000 meters. Again, please refer to pictures as my words hardly paint the picture.
That night the accomodation was a little more rustic. We all slept in the same room in an adobe hut. Very primitive and very cold. It felt like we were at the base camp for Mount Everest as you could see snowy mountains out the windows. Since we had to rise at 4:30 the next morning, it was an early night with a few games of hearts and then to bed.
Getting up that early was tough but well worth it once the day unfolded. Guess who´s car wouldn´t start in the morning.....sure enough our driver Don Juan and I were trying to push start the vehicle when I look up with my headlamp and saw the Germans standing there staring at us...what the fuck. Also, this was the second time this trip I have had to get up at the butt-crack of dawn and try to push start a vehicle and at this altitude it was hairy. Their vehicle finally turned over and we all headed out....to the Geysers. Now I was expecting one hole in the ground with steam shooting out but this was from another planet. Another PLANET I TELL YOU. I WAS ON FUCKING MARS MAN!! Steam was bubbling from crevices in the earth all over the place and the minerals turned the ground all kinds of colors. It was breathtaking to watch the sun come up and be in this place. We took some great and funny pictures then headed to our next stop. Hot springs. Wow this was cool. None of us were sure if we wanted to brave the cold for the hot but a few of us ´had to do it´. So surreal to be sitting in a hot tub at the foot of a snowy mountain next to a lagoon with flamingoes at 7:30 in the morning.
After our dip and breakfast we headed through Salvador Dali´s Valley named so because of the surreal landscape. It was incredible again. Then the final stop at Laguna Verde for one last photo moment before 3 of us were dropped at the border and Team Mayonesa broke up.
I just got into San Pedro and it is ridiculously expensive just as the Chileans said. I have decided not even to stay the night and head directly to Iquiques to meet up with the guys I met in Cuzco for some fun on the beach. I am so ready for hot sun and sand and beach and all that good stuff. Sandboarding, paragliding and surfing hopefully.
Wait till you see these pics!!
The only reason Uyuni is even on the map is because it is the entrance to the Salar so to say that it is a óne horse town´ is pretty right on. I decided to head out into the desert with my new friend Peter for some adventure. Pete and I had been on the same path oddly enough (or not) and took the opportunity to wander and chat together in the great expanse surrounding Uyuni. We first walked out to the ´train graveyard´about 2k from town. The walk was along the tracks and between the cemetary and town was open plains. The only sound was wind passing through all the plastic bags that littered the area. It was gross to see that much trash consuming the environment. It was also very real as we noticed people that appeared to be looking for something throughout the plain but, in fact, were using the bathroom. That is how they live here. Their adobe homes on the opposite side of the tracks have no toilet facilities and this is what they have been doing for generations. The train graveyard was eerily quiet. We were the only people there and meandered through the wreckage. I did a little graffiti in memory of a few peeps back home with a rock on some rusty parts of a train but other than that it was very peaceful and quiet. You could actually see nature reclaiming the man-made machines as rust overtook then decomposed the wreckage.
On the way back to town we caught an impromptu soccer match. It was 15 on 15 played on a huge dirt field (I guess you would call it that) chalk full of puddles, mud and ditches. No matter where I have been in the world, rich or poor, there is always room for a soccer pitch and people to play. This game truely is for everyone, everywhere. The evening and night passed uneventfully aside from the great conversation Pete and I had. He helped me realize so much and through our conversations I came to understand more than I realized was within me.
The following morning I was up bright and early for a solid breakfast then met up with my group for our 3 day/2 night tour. The group immidiatly clicked which was super awesome. There were 6 of us total. Wowster and his fiance Andrea from Holland are both family doctors and on short holiday. Then there was Mario and his girlfriend Daniella from Chile who are both studying to be doctors on a short holiday. Last was Phil, a Santa Barbara born kid who grew up in North Carolina and is currently living in La Paz working as a guide for the biking adventures. Super cool cat who said he signed up with the agency because he saw that there was another American already on board. We first headed to the train cemetary for a short visit then out to the Salar. This was incredible. The Salar is the largest dry salt lake bed in the world or something like that and in the winter is completely dry and white as far as the eye can see. Since this is the rainy season there was a few inches of water covering the entire plain. The reflection was beyond words and gave the most surreal perspective (please see photos). We drove right out into the middle for lunch and to take some photos then headed back through Uyuni on a 3 hour ride for our first night. We went to San Juan and stayed in a salt hotel which was really cool. Most of the entire building is made from salt bricks. The floor is salt, the tables are made from salt, the chairs...everything but the toilet and sink I guess. One other small group arrived for the night as well but they weren´t very friendly. It was an older couple who never smiled and smoked loads of cigarettes. We started taking bets on where they were from....´Germany´ Áustria´´Finland´...it was hilarous..at first. The only other cool thing about San Juan was the crypt. There were mud and brick mini-structures with holes for windows where you could look in and see a decomposed body in the fetal position with deteriorating clothes. Super eerie and super cool. Anyway, our group (later named Team Mayonesa due to the amount of mayonaise everyone would use during the meals) sat together and chatted the whole time. After dinner I taught the group how to play hearts then promptly lost to Phil (the only other person who knew the game prior). Phil and I shared a room and the other couples all had their own rooms. It was very nice.
The following morning we had a simple breakfast around 7:30 then headed out for a full day of sight seeing. The scenery out there is amazing and beyond words. Since it had rained the entire night before both groups decided to travel together. Within an hour the óther´group got stuck in mud. The two people, we later found out were in fact Germans, sat in the car while we piled out to help un-stick the vehicle. It was comical as we are all helping to get their car out while they sit in the back. It wasn´t until Wowster made a comment about whether they were comfortable or not that they finally got out of the vehicle to watch us work. After finally dislodging their vehicle, with no thanks from them, we were all back on track. We went passed several lagoons all having different minerals in them. This made for amazing colors and contrast. We also stopped by some impossibly formed volcanic rock structures and then finally stopped for lunch. There was tons of wildlife as well. We saw Vicunas which look like small llamas, llamas and even spotted a viscacha which looks like a rabbit with a squirrel tail. Post lunch we saw more amazing landscapes then finally arrived at Laguna Colorado. They are trying to make this one of the ´natural wonders of the world´and I can see why. It was breathtaking. Amazing colors mixed with colorful flamingoes mixed with llamas and the most amazing landscape. Mountains with snow surrounded us as we were at about 4,000 meters. Again, please refer to pictures as my words hardly paint the picture.
That night the accomodation was a little more rustic. We all slept in the same room in an adobe hut. Very primitive and very cold. It felt like we were at the base camp for Mount Everest as you could see snowy mountains out the windows. Since we had to rise at 4:30 the next morning, it was an early night with a few games of hearts and then to bed.
Getting up that early was tough but well worth it once the day unfolded. Guess who´s car wouldn´t start in the morning.....sure enough our driver Don Juan and I were trying to push start the vehicle when I look up with my headlamp and saw the Germans standing there staring at us...what the fuck. Also, this was the second time this trip I have had to get up at the butt-crack of dawn and try to push start a vehicle and at this altitude it was hairy. Their vehicle finally turned over and we all headed out....to the Geysers. Now I was expecting one hole in the ground with steam shooting out but this was from another planet. Another PLANET I TELL YOU. I WAS ON FUCKING MARS MAN!! Steam was bubbling from crevices in the earth all over the place and the minerals turned the ground all kinds of colors. It was breathtaking to watch the sun come up and be in this place. We took some great and funny pictures then headed to our next stop. Hot springs. Wow this was cool. None of us were sure if we wanted to brave the cold for the hot but a few of us ´had to do it´. So surreal to be sitting in a hot tub at the foot of a snowy mountain next to a lagoon with flamingoes at 7:30 in the morning.
After our dip and breakfast we headed through Salvador Dali´s Valley named so because of the surreal landscape. It was incredible again. Then the final stop at Laguna Verde for one last photo moment before 3 of us were dropped at the border and Team Mayonesa broke up.
I just got into San Pedro and it is ridiculously expensive just as the Chileans said. I have decided not even to stay the night and head directly to Iquiques to meet up with the guys I met in Cuzco for some fun on the beach. I am so ready for hot sun and sand and beach and all that good stuff. Sandboarding, paragliding and surfing hopefully.
Wait till you see these pics!!
Saturday, February 12, 2011
La Paz, Bolivia
Leaving Puno and my new friends was tough but the bus ride through the Altiplano region and around Lake Titicaca was amazing. A tip for the bus rides, don´t always go for the cheapest bus. Sometimes it is worth the extra 5US to have a nice bus with decent smelling people. I had a rickety bus and sat next to the smelliest man ever. Our bus wound around the lake and then into Copacabana where we changed buses and continued through to La Paz. Thanks to our former president and the War on Drugs, Americans now have to pay 135US to get into the cheapest country in South America. That amount could cover your living, eating and going out expenses in the country for a week. At one point we had to disembark and cross the lake on a boat. The crazy thing was that so did our bus!! We road a small boat across while our buses were loaded onto cargo flats the same size as the bus with a little motor on the back. While waiting for the bus I snacked on some local street food. There were ladies sitting in the plaza frying up little fish from the lake. What looked and tasted like sardines with a little hot sauce on top made for a delicous snack. The rest of the bus ride was uneventful aside from when we finally decended into La Paz.
When you enter La Paz the road opens up, overlooking the valley that is La Paz and it is breathtaking. I did a little research on hostels and found one boasting home brew so that is where I cut straight to. Unfortunatly that spot and the next 5 I tried were all booked. I was exhausted and out of breath (the altitude is no joke) then finally found a spot on the opposite side of town from where I started. This wound up being a great deal as I paid the same for a solo room with shared bathroom as most kids were paying for a dorm bed in a large room with shared facilities. The downside with my spot was that it was not a popular backpacker spot so I had to go elsewhere to meet folks....so that is what I did!
After dropping my bags and catching my breath, I headed out to gather info on the city then back to that homebrew hostel to do a little research. They had 4 beers on tap and the Amber was by far the best. While there I started chatting with a group of travellers that I had overheard mention the San Pedro Prison tour. I had just finished reading 'Marching Powder' which is about the prison and was eager to take a look inside. Not necessarily a tourist thing but still a tourist thing. They were paying about 80US for the tour the following day. I found out all kinds of other great info including who ran the best and cheapest mountain bike adventure and what to do in Uyuni. It took a minute to come out of my shell but by the end of the evening I had made many friends at the hostel and found out all kinds of valuable info. I also came in second playing the game Shithead (which I learned on the spot).
The following day I was set on getting into the prison. I first tried to walk right in the front gates but was turned around with a stern, 'No turistos'. I was told to just stand in the plaza and look like a gringo to get a tour so that is what I tried next. Within minutes a guy walked up to me asking if I wanted a tour and telling me that I needed to go in the side door if I wanted but first we had to pay a few people off. I gave him about 3US at first to pay off one guy then he said we had to go to another spot to get another stamp and I needed another 10US. I gave him basically a 20 and he never came back. What a sucker I am. But he did give me some information while we were walking around that I used to my advantage. I actually can't get into the real story here as there is a pending international investigation and soon-to-be big news coming out of the prison but suffice it to say I got what I was looking for with the prison. I managed to get in and I managed to chat with someone inside for a bit. This story is one for the books so definetly ask me when I see you next!
The street food here in La Paz has been fantastic. For the first two nights I went to the same strip of stalls opposite the huge cathedral and plaza for a beef, egg, grilled onion and dressing sandwich for 1US. During the days while walking around I will usually have an empanada type thing for breakfast with fresh juice and then a set lunch menu for ultra cheap. It is a great way to meet locals and try the flavors.
The following morning I had to be up early for the bike ride. La Paz has a road that is billed as 'the most dangerous road in the world'. It is now closed to traffic so groups of mountain bikers dare it on a daily basis. I was given knee pads, a helmet, gloves and wind proof pants and jacket. We started about an hour outside of La Paz at 4,700 meters. It was freezing and there was snow around us. From there we decended on a paved road for about an hour. The weather was more than fog but less than rain. It was wet. The road was wet and water was flying in my eyes as we raced down this part. Then, at about 3,000 meters, it started to rain. No one in the group was prepared for this but we all buckled down...and got soaked. Shortly after that we hit the infamous road which is unpaved and follows a precarious path down the mountain. There are 40 meter drops off the side, and, because of the rain, there were mudslides and huge waterfalls cascading down onto the path. It was beautiful but it was definetly hairy. The last 1,000 meters were the best. By that time we had come out of the rain and into the jungle. I was directly behind the guide the whole time and he let open a little at the end so we were racing crazy down the mountain. I almost lost it twice which was just the excitement I had been looking for. At the end we had travelled 65km from 4,700meters in the snow to 1,000 meters in the jungle. It was badass! The group also became pretty tight by the end of the adventure and we shared many great tips and stories over lunch and on the ride home.
Last night was Friday night and I made the wise decision to take it easy and just read in bed. This morning, I was very happy about that decision as it was gorgeous out and I was able to finally put on some shorts. I wanted to check out the black market and witches market as they are infamous in town. I scored another cheap pair of shades and a new mp3 player for ultra cheap in the black market where everything is for sale. The witches market had all kinds of wierd things like alpaca fetus's that are dried and used as good luck charms as well as various spices and herbs. Tonight I head out to Uyuni to check the salt flats. It is an overnight bus which should be an adventure given the recent weather and road conditions in this country. All in all, if I had more time, I would like to spend it here in Bolivia. It is cheap and there is everything. Further North is the Amazon jungle with amazing wildlife and further East are the college towns and other major cities. The good thing about my expensive visa is that it is good for 5 years....so maybe I'll come back!!
When you enter La Paz the road opens up, overlooking the valley that is La Paz and it is breathtaking. I did a little research on hostels and found one boasting home brew so that is where I cut straight to. Unfortunatly that spot and the next 5 I tried were all booked. I was exhausted and out of breath (the altitude is no joke) then finally found a spot on the opposite side of town from where I started. This wound up being a great deal as I paid the same for a solo room with shared bathroom as most kids were paying for a dorm bed in a large room with shared facilities. The downside with my spot was that it was not a popular backpacker spot so I had to go elsewhere to meet folks....so that is what I did!
After dropping my bags and catching my breath, I headed out to gather info on the city then back to that homebrew hostel to do a little research. They had 4 beers on tap and the Amber was by far the best. While there I started chatting with a group of travellers that I had overheard mention the San Pedro Prison tour. I had just finished reading 'Marching Powder' which is about the prison and was eager to take a look inside. Not necessarily a tourist thing but still a tourist thing. They were paying about 80US for the tour the following day. I found out all kinds of other great info including who ran the best and cheapest mountain bike adventure and what to do in Uyuni. It took a minute to come out of my shell but by the end of the evening I had made many friends at the hostel and found out all kinds of valuable info. I also came in second playing the game Shithead (which I learned on the spot).
The following day I was set on getting into the prison. I first tried to walk right in the front gates but was turned around with a stern, 'No turistos'. I was told to just stand in the plaza and look like a gringo to get a tour so that is what I tried next. Within minutes a guy walked up to me asking if I wanted a tour and telling me that I needed to go in the side door if I wanted but first we had to pay a few people off. I gave him about 3US at first to pay off one guy then he said we had to go to another spot to get another stamp and I needed another 10US. I gave him basically a 20 and he never came back. What a sucker I am. But he did give me some information while we were walking around that I used to my advantage. I actually can't get into the real story here as there is a pending international investigation and soon-to-be big news coming out of the prison but suffice it to say I got what I was looking for with the prison. I managed to get in and I managed to chat with someone inside for a bit. This story is one for the books so definetly ask me when I see you next!
The street food here in La Paz has been fantastic. For the first two nights I went to the same strip of stalls opposite the huge cathedral and plaza for a beef, egg, grilled onion and dressing sandwich for 1US. During the days while walking around I will usually have an empanada type thing for breakfast with fresh juice and then a set lunch menu for ultra cheap. It is a great way to meet locals and try the flavors.
The following morning I had to be up early for the bike ride. La Paz has a road that is billed as 'the most dangerous road in the world'. It is now closed to traffic so groups of mountain bikers dare it on a daily basis. I was given knee pads, a helmet, gloves and wind proof pants and jacket. We started about an hour outside of La Paz at 4,700 meters. It was freezing and there was snow around us. From there we decended on a paved road for about an hour. The weather was more than fog but less than rain. It was wet. The road was wet and water was flying in my eyes as we raced down this part. Then, at about 3,000 meters, it started to rain. No one in the group was prepared for this but we all buckled down...and got soaked. Shortly after that we hit the infamous road which is unpaved and follows a precarious path down the mountain. There are 40 meter drops off the side, and, because of the rain, there were mudslides and huge waterfalls cascading down onto the path. It was beautiful but it was definetly hairy. The last 1,000 meters were the best. By that time we had come out of the rain and into the jungle. I was directly behind the guide the whole time and he let open a little at the end so we were racing crazy down the mountain. I almost lost it twice which was just the excitement I had been looking for. At the end we had travelled 65km from 4,700meters in the snow to 1,000 meters in the jungle. It was badass! The group also became pretty tight by the end of the adventure and we shared many great tips and stories over lunch and on the ride home.
Last night was Friday night and I made the wise decision to take it easy and just read in bed. This morning, I was very happy about that decision as it was gorgeous out and I was able to finally put on some shorts. I wanted to check out the black market and witches market as they are infamous in town. I scored another cheap pair of shades and a new mp3 player for ultra cheap in the black market where everything is for sale. The witches market had all kinds of wierd things like alpaca fetus's that are dried and used as good luck charms as well as various spices and herbs. Tonight I head out to Uyuni to check the salt flats. It is an overnight bus which should be an adventure given the recent weather and road conditions in this country. All in all, if I had more time, I would like to spend it here in Bolivia. It is cheap and there is everything. Further North is the Amazon jungle with amazing wildlife and further East are the college towns and other major cities. The good thing about my expensive visa is that it is good for 5 years....so maybe I'll come back!!
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
Puno, Peru
This city and festival is going to be an adventure. I just arrived yesterday from Cuzco after an amazingly beautiful bus ride through the Andes. I knew the city would be super busy because of the festival and immidiatly set out to find a room. Once all that was sorted, I called a connection I had down here. I was given Marco´s name from a friend who knew him through another friend. We met near the plaza and he took me under his wing. He doesn´t speak any English so once again it was my Spanish working. We walked over to the Iglesia de la Candelaria where the huge procession was ending. Apparently they take this huge statue of Mary around town in the procession and people through flowers on her. It was beautiful. Then Marco took me over to one of his ´bands´. He walked around the circle saying hello to everyone then introducing me, it was super cool. Then they started playing their sicuris and drumming and singing. He explained that the sicuris talk to each other and everyone in the circle is responsible for part of the conversation. After that he took me to a local restaurant where we had salto de lado. This is another typical dish in Peru and I hadn´t tried it yet...delish! I kept saying that if he had to go, I would be alright on my own but nooooo, he had plans for me. Earlier in our conversations he asked if I wanted to dance with his group in the festival. Of course I did! I had no idea what that meant at the time but I always like to start with YES. After dinner we walked over to his friends hostel. There I was introduced to another group of people and we sat around drinking some beer and eating popcorn. It was so cool to be chatting away with everyone in Spanish. They are all so nice and generous. After a few drinks the group headed up the hill to practice the dance. Yo soy Altiplano ahora...that is to say that now I am part of the Altiplano crew! I learned the dance all while we were drinking rum and coke. The way they drink is super cool too. Only one glass that gets passed around from person to person along with the bottle. You are basically taking shots aka cortos and then passing it. Once again, I was friends with everyone. Then they started describing the different costumes etc and all decided that I would be the Joker aka Bufon. It sounds like I get to act like a complete fool and ham it up....no hay problemo if you know what I´m sayin!! We were practising our dancing in the Zamponista-Altiplano neighborhood, straight in the streets....then it started to rain. We moved the party back to Hernan´s hostel and cleared the dining area to practice dancing more. There was definetly more drinking than dancing at this point. Along with the rum and coke, they were also passing around a warm drink called Cachicanca which is made with anis, sugar, a little salt, water and a secret or two. We were all laughing and joking and chatting with each other. I found out where the best ceviche in town is and also were the black market is (I needed to get a new charger for the cheap phone I have). Once it started getting late Marco left with his family and Hernan asked me to stay and hang with them some more....so of course I did!! By the time the booze was done, we were all completely toasted. Hernan insisted that I sleep at his hostel for free instead of walking home in the rain. I felt like I was imposing but he and his wife would not let me leave. They are so cool and generous. I woke this morning feeling a little hungover probably from mixing alcohol and drinking too much sugar. I wasn´t the only one feeling this way though....everyone in the group was moving slow!
Today was cool. I explored the area and went down to the port to find out about a colectivo (cheap boat) to Amantani. Near the port a group of kids were juggling and hanging out so I went down there to juggle a bit and kick it. They were super cool Argentian peeps here for the festival. Post juggling, I went for the ceviche. It was amazing. Eriso del Mar on the corner of Cajamarca and Moquegua. After lunch and a little walk through the black market, I headed to my new hostel for a siesta. At the moment I am back at Hernan´s hostel using his computer and waiting for Marco to get here. Hernan and I have decided that we are not drinking tonight as last night was enough to last. We went up the street for some more practice then I called it a night and headed for some sleep.
The following day I moved my bag to Hernan´s place. He allowed me to sleep on his couch for my entire stay!! I was planning on heading to Amantani for the night but it sounds like there is too much going on to leave! For that reason I decided on a short trip to Isles de Uros. These are islands made from reeds and super cool. The tour lasted a few hours and took us to a few of the islands where we were given presentations about the people and area. That evening the bands arrived. There are 75 groups involved and many of them fly in bands from Bolivia and other parts of South America for the competition. We started at the house of the president of our group. There was a short Catholic ceremony then the drinks started coming out and the group started practising. I made so many new friends that night. An older man that appeared to be the father of the new president spoke directly following the ceremony. Although I didn´t understand everything he was saying, the emotion was clear. I was kicking it with him after and we shared some funny stories. After the party ended a few of us headed down to see the fireworks. In the park there was a huge bamboo structure with fireworks attached to it. The most crude and cool thing. It went up with fireworks shooting from all sides and shooting fire into the crowd. Then we headed to a local bar for some te piceado which is tea with anis. Very good on a cold night. On the way home we walked past a bar that had a classic rock cover band killing it. We had to stop for a few songs and wound up staying out till around 2 then headed to Christian´s where he said I could crash on his couch. We had to get up at 5 AM the following morning to attend a reception and practice.
That was tough. I woke up after only 2 hours of sleep feeling a bit off. We had a cup of coffee then jumped in his old VW bug for the drive to the reception. Unfortunatly his car wouldn´t start so he asked me to push so we could jump it. I seriously pushed that thing half way to town and with the altitude and my hangover, I felt super sick. We wound up ditching the car and hailing a cab. We arrived at the reception hall and most of the band was already drinking. It was surreal. After another short ceremony the beer and wine came out. Then they fed us an amazing breakfast and the party continued. I was bouncing from group to group as I now knew most of the people there. Lots of dancing, too much drinking and a lot of laughing! After that party I went with Hernan to another party for his local neighborhood. This time Hernan didn´t want to stay so I kicked it with his father who is a tough drinker and very cool dude. Free food, free beer, a huge band and lots of dancing...again...That evening we headed down to the center to watch the bands battle each other and play in the streets. Then we headed back to Ecco´s for some more classic rock. The singer´s voice was crazy good and they killed every song they were playing! A few games of pool, a few songs and I had to call it a night. Sunday and Monday are the biggest days and I wanted to be prepared!
Sunday we were up early and everyone was running around frantically trying to get their outfits together. I can´t begin to tell you the detail and effort that everyone puts into their costumes. Hernan hooked me up with everything and in no time we were all dressed and ready. We hailed a cab and jetted down to the stadium. On Sunday the groups perform in the stadium then head out through the streets. The following day it is all in the streets. We arrived just as the group was going on so we literally ran in the back and onto the field. It was surreal. The stadium was pretty packed and we came out to a large applause. After our short performance we exited and headed to a cul de sac near the stadium to hang. Beer came out, then food, then more beer....then rain. Everyone was huddled under trees for a bit still drinking and partying then the group decided that rain or not we were heading into the streets. It was hilarious! So much fun!! The rain was dumping down and we were charging through! My costume was drenched by the end. You will have to see the pictures to understand my costume but I thought it was pretty funny and really enjoyed playing it up with a mask on. Because the rain was so intense and I was having so much fun with people on the streets, I got seperated from the group. That was pretty funny as I was soaking wet and wondering the streets in full costume solo. I headed back to Hernan´s and changed then found out where they were and headed that way. Another reception...you know what that means..more food, more beer....yikes! After that a small group headed back to Hernan´s with a case of large bottles of beer. We were dancing, drinking and laughing...such a good group of people and all so welcoming and understading of my poor Spanish. I was told then that I have to attend the festival 3 years in a row or something bad will happen so it looks like I will be returning next year...if anyone is interested! Then they bought another case of beer...yikes! I was exhausted but didn´t want to be the only one to leave (I was the youngest too so that added a little bit to it...if these geezers could hang then so could I). We finished another 9 beers between 7 of us and then called it a night. I was pooped but knew that we only had one more day so I had to power through.
Marco woke me up on Monday with a shot of Pisco. Oh boy. I put my costume back on then grabbed a biscuit and hit the road with them. We got down to the beginning of the street parade around 8 and met up with the group. Marco bought a bottle of rum and we mixed some cocktails for the road. Then we started down the street. I can´t begin to tell you the fun we had. Since I am the ´chica loca´ I get to do basically whatever I want. I would dance with the group then plop down on some person´s lap and start stroking their hair. Or I would grab someone from the crowd and drag them out for a quick dance then give them a huge kiss...with my mask on. Everyone would cheer and laugh. People would run out to you while you are parading and give you beer, water and shots. This festival is amazing. Anyone can run into the street and take photos with you if they want, anyone can give you free beer and it is a very common sight to see participants with an instrument in one hand and a beer in the other. Once I found out that there is a winner (and we were second after the previous days performance), I decided to put everything into my performance. I was drenched with sweat and running amok in the streets. My favorite moments were when I would walk up to a huge group of people, grab one and dance then fake kiss then turn to the group, lift my mask up and say something to everyone in English. That always got a great reaction. We danced 20 blocks and were all totally beat. My legs were cramping, my back ached and I now have a cut on my nose from the mask but we were all elated. We showered, changed and headed down to watch the other groups. The parade started at 8 and didn´t end till around 2AM. I actually can´t say exactly as I couldn´t stay awake for the whole thing. There are over 50,000 people that participate in the parade. The largest groups have 2,000 people and a few bands. The bands are rented for 1,000 US a day. Some of the outfits cost 45US to rent. The shit is crazy! We sat for hours, drinking, cheering, dancing and watching the groups. Some had amazing choreography, some had amazingly detailed outfits and all were amazing. At one point it started to hail but that didn´t stop anyone. Without wanting the night to end a few of us headed to Domino aka the megaclub for a few more dances and drinks.
I had an amazing time here in Puno. I can safely say that I look forward to drying out and not drinking for a a bit as this festival was super intense. It was all I could do to keep up with these people! I will definetly be coming back here and am already planning my trip. 2 weeks, 1 in Cuzco with Machu Picchu and 1 here for the festival....who´s coming with me!!
Today was cool. I explored the area and went down to the port to find out about a colectivo (cheap boat) to Amantani. Near the port a group of kids were juggling and hanging out so I went down there to juggle a bit and kick it. They were super cool Argentian peeps here for the festival. Post juggling, I went for the ceviche. It was amazing. Eriso del Mar on the corner of Cajamarca and Moquegua. After lunch and a little walk through the black market, I headed to my new hostel for a siesta. At the moment I am back at Hernan´s hostel using his computer and waiting for Marco to get here. Hernan and I have decided that we are not drinking tonight as last night was enough to last. We went up the street for some more practice then I called it a night and headed for some sleep.
The following day I moved my bag to Hernan´s place. He allowed me to sleep on his couch for my entire stay!! I was planning on heading to Amantani for the night but it sounds like there is too much going on to leave! For that reason I decided on a short trip to Isles de Uros. These are islands made from reeds and super cool. The tour lasted a few hours and took us to a few of the islands where we were given presentations about the people and area. That evening the bands arrived. There are 75 groups involved and many of them fly in bands from Bolivia and other parts of South America for the competition. We started at the house of the president of our group. There was a short Catholic ceremony then the drinks started coming out and the group started practising. I made so many new friends that night. An older man that appeared to be the father of the new president spoke directly following the ceremony. Although I didn´t understand everything he was saying, the emotion was clear. I was kicking it with him after and we shared some funny stories. After the party ended a few of us headed down to see the fireworks. In the park there was a huge bamboo structure with fireworks attached to it. The most crude and cool thing. It went up with fireworks shooting from all sides and shooting fire into the crowd. Then we headed to a local bar for some te piceado which is tea with anis. Very good on a cold night. On the way home we walked past a bar that had a classic rock cover band killing it. We had to stop for a few songs and wound up staying out till around 2 then headed to Christian´s where he said I could crash on his couch. We had to get up at 5 AM the following morning to attend a reception and practice.
That was tough. I woke up after only 2 hours of sleep feeling a bit off. We had a cup of coffee then jumped in his old VW bug for the drive to the reception. Unfortunatly his car wouldn´t start so he asked me to push so we could jump it. I seriously pushed that thing half way to town and with the altitude and my hangover, I felt super sick. We wound up ditching the car and hailing a cab. We arrived at the reception hall and most of the band was already drinking. It was surreal. After another short ceremony the beer and wine came out. Then they fed us an amazing breakfast and the party continued. I was bouncing from group to group as I now knew most of the people there. Lots of dancing, too much drinking and a lot of laughing! After that party I went with Hernan to another party for his local neighborhood. This time Hernan didn´t want to stay so I kicked it with his father who is a tough drinker and very cool dude. Free food, free beer, a huge band and lots of dancing...again...That evening we headed down to the center to watch the bands battle each other and play in the streets. Then we headed back to Ecco´s for some more classic rock. The singer´s voice was crazy good and they killed every song they were playing! A few games of pool, a few songs and I had to call it a night. Sunday and Monday are the biggest days and I wanted to be prepared!
Sunday we were up early and everyone was running around frantically trying to get their outfits together. I can´t begin to tell you the detail and effort that everyone puts into their costumes. Hernan hooked me up with everything and in no time we were all dressed and ready. We hailed a cab and jetted down to the stadium. On Sunday the groups perform in the stadium then head out through the streets. The following day it is all in the streets. We arrived just as the group was going on so we literally ran in the back and onto the field. It was surreal. The stadium was pretty packed and we came out to a large applause. After our short performance we exited and headed to a cul de sac near the stadium to hang. Beer came out, then food, then more beer....then rain. Everyone was huddled under trees for a bit still drinking and partying then the group decided that rain or not we were heading into the streets. It was hilarious! So much fun!! The rain was dumping down and we were charging through! My costume was drenched by the end. You will have to see the pictures to understand my costume but I thought it was pretty funny and really enjoyed playing it up with a mask on. Because the rain was so intense and I was having so much fun with people on the streets, I got seperated from the group. That was pretty funny as I was soaking wet and wondering the streets in full costume solo. I headed back to Hernan´s and changed then found out where they were and headed that way. Another reception...you know what that means..more food, more beer....yikes! After that a small group headed back to Hernan´s with a case of large bottles of beer. We were dancing, drinking and laughing...such a good group of people and all so welcoming and understading of my poor Spanish. I was told then that I have to attend the festival 3 years in a row or something bad will happen so it looks like I will be returning next year...if anyone is interested! Then they bought another case of beer...yikes! I was exhausted but didn´t want to be the only one to leave (I was the youngest too so that added a little bit to it...if these geezers could hang then so could I). We finished another 9 beers between 7 of us and then called it a night. I was pooped but knew that we only had one more day so I had to power through.
Marco woke me up on Monday with a shot of Pisco. Oh boy. I put my costume back on then grabbed a biscuit and hit the road with them. We got down to the beginning of the street parade around 8 and met up with the group. Marco bought a bottle of rum and we mixed some cocktails for the road. Then we started down the street. I can´t begin to tell you the fun we had. Since I am the ´chica loca´ I get to do basically whatever I want. I would dance with the group then plop down on some person´s lap and start stroking their hair. Or I would grab someone from the crowd and drag them out for a quick dance then give them a huge kiss...with my mask on. Everyone would cheer and laugh. People would run out to you while you are parading and give you beer, water and shots. This festival is amazing. Anyone can run into the street and take photos with you if they want, anyone can give you free beer and it is a very common sight to see participants with an instrument in one hand and a beer in the other. Once I found out that there is a winner (and we were second after the previous days performance), I decided to put everything into my performance. I was drenched with sweat and running amok in the streets. My favorite moments were when I would walk up to a huge group of people, grab one and dance then fake kiss then turn to the group, lift my mask up and say something to everyone in English. That always got a great reaction. We danced 20 blocks and were all totally beat. My legs were cramping, my back ached and I now have a cut on my nose from the mask but we were all elated. We showered, changed and headed down to watch the other groups. The parade started at 8 and didn´t end till around 2AM. I actually can´t say exactly as I couldn´t stay awake for the whole thing. There are over 50,000 people that participate in the parade. The largest groups have 2,000 people and a few bands. The bands are rented for 1,000 US a day. Some of the outfits cost 45US to rent. The shit is crazy! We sat for hours, drinking, cheering, dancing and watching the groups. Some had amazing choreography, some had amazingly detailed outfits and all were amazing. At one point it started to hail but that didn´t stop anyone. Without wanting the night to end a few of us headed to Domino aka the megaclub for a few more dances and drinks.
I had an amazing time here in Puno. I can safely say that I look forward to drying out and not drinking for a a bit as this festival was super intense. It was all I could do to keep up with these people! I will definetly be coming back here and am already planning my trip. 2 weeks, 1 in Cuzco with Machu Picchu and 1 here for the festival....who´s coming with me!!
Tuesday, February 1, 2011
The Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu
Dios Mio!! These last two days have changed my life. I can´t begin to say how special the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu are. It is no surprise the Inca´s considered this area the navel of Mother Earth. I am so enchanted, humbled and awe-struck by the Inca culture. Their ability to live with the Earth is something Western culture coud definetly learn from.
So, I started very early at Simon´s guesthouse where I was taken by cab to the bus stop and put into an English speaking tour of the Sacred Valley. The drive from Cuzco to Pisac (the first destination in the Sacred Valley) was incredible. The mountains are insane and then a beautiful valley appears out of no where. Everything can be grown here and because of the advanced agricutural science of the Inca´s there are many types of everything...potatoes, corn, dyes, etc. Sunday is a great day to visit Pisac as there is the tourist market (everyday of the week) and the local market (only a few days a week and largest on Sunday). Plus we were able to see people dressed in traditional clothes going to and from church. I grubbed a few delish empanadas and strolled around the market. I am making a concious effort not to by stuff this trip as it got a little out of control in SE Asia. That being said, there were a few things that had to be purchased for friends back home.
After Pisac we headed to Urumbaba for lunch (I had delish chicken soup aka caldo de gallo) and then to Ollantaytambo to explore the Inca Complex. It was incredible and I really enjoyed our tour guide. Not only had she told us many things while driving from Cuzco through the Sacred Valley but when we started walking around the complex in Ollantaytambo she was practially jumping with excitement as she told us about the Inca´s, their culture and the local area. It was also very nice because it is the rainy season so there are less tourists and everything is green and lush. There were dahlias and orchids everywhere. It was amazing and just as lush at Machu Picchu.
After touring the complex and allowing for a little Sacred Valley rain to fall upon me, we had some time to break for drinks and snacks. I sat at a table with an older Brazilian dude who was on tour. We started chatting and he told me that his son lives in Huntington Beach, CA and is a professional volleyball player. Yeah, he is from Sao Paulo and he is riding his motorcyle from there to his son in Cali...:WHA!? Oh, he is stopping in the Amazon to meet up with his other son who is kayaking down the Amazon...no biggie. This guy had many stories and was super cool to chat with.
At that point I split from the group and boarded a train to Agua Calientes. Agua Calientes is the closest town to Machu Picchu and the jump off for most people. Simon suggested a hostel for me to stay at which was amazing. It was cheap and I was the only one there. He also gave me advice on how to get up the mountain the best and what to see while up there. I retired early that night in preparation of having to get up at 3:30 AM to start the hike. I had everything laid out and when the alarm went off I jumped with excitement. Once I had stored my bag and locked myself out of the hostel, I realized a major fashion disaster...my zipper was broken..hahahahah...oh this is great!! The one day I want to be taking a ton of pictures and my fly is permanetly down....wtf...hahahah....oh well. I made it down to the gate/entrance about 30 minutes before it opened and started chatting with the peeps in line around me. There were only about 15 people in front of me. When the gate opened everyone crossed the bridge then started up the road. Simon specifically told me to look to the right as there are steps that are used to walk up to Machu Picchu. The road is for the buses and has tons of switchbacks. I broke off from the mass and headed for the steps. People started following me and the charge began. I felt the energy of the people behind me and the energy of the ruins above me. It was all I could do to keep my feet under my body as my head floated up the mountain. I reached the top in under 40 minutes (8km straight up hill) and was the seventh person in line. It was exhilerating. It was exhausting. It was amazingly special. I was drenched in sweat and had to remove my shirt and just wear my sweatshirt. Everyone one in that first group of 10 or so was super stoked to be up that early. We were all congratulating each other and sharing tips about what to do.
Simon told me to skip the guided tour at the beginning and head straight to the Portal of the Sun aka Intipunku. This is where the Inca trail enters the ruins and also where the classic postcard of Machu Picchu is shot. I didn´t realize that is was another 30 minute walk once inside the ruins. Since the people in front of me were all in a group, I was able to side step and literally be the first person into Machu Picchu...it took my breath away. There were two other guys who came up after me and we all decided to mash up to the sun portal. It was a trek but well worth it. Since they had to head back for the early entry to Waynapichu (Simon advised I do the later entry and was right on), we all took a few photos then they bounced....and I was all alone. Sitting there staring at the awesomeness of Machu Picchu, Waynapichu and the surrounding mountains was beyond words. I sat there for over an hour, meditating, doing yoga and staring in sheer amazement. I felt changed sitting up there. It is really beyond words but was so powerful to be there, alone, meditating and doing yoga while the sun rose and illuminated the area. I decided that it was time to head back down and that was the exact moment a group came around the bend...it was perfect.
I went back to the ruins and followed more of Simon´s instructions. Instead of siging up for a tour, I would just sit by a ruin, temple or hut and wait for a tour to come through. I would just eaves-drop in English and Spanish. Since there were so many tours it was easy to jump around and get all the info. Everything the Inca´s did was for a reason. The light from the sun shines through that window and into the eyes of a llama carved from stone to tell when they will start migrating. Light shines through this window for each Solstice...even that the river is the same shape as the Milky Way and therefore further evidence about how magical the area is. I was really stunned.
In my excitement to leave, I forgot to grab any snacks and only had a small bottle of water to drink before I started up the hill. I figured I would just buy some ridiculously expensive food up there in order to travel lighter up the hill. After touring the ruins, I desperatly needed some water and a snack. I walked down to the cafe area and looked at all the delicous food in the display. Mouth-watering, I walked up and ordered a sandwhich and huge bottle of water. It wasn´t until she rang me up did I realize that I hadn´t brough my wallet. Oh jeeeezus! I had planned to take the bus down as the hike up and around was exhausting but now I had to descend by foot. I realized that I could pay 1 sole and drink water in the bathroom so I hydrated and started walking down. It was amazing. There was a little rain and fog by the time I left. I felt completely satisfied with my experience up there. Even more satisfied than I thought I could be. I decided to look at it as a fast of a spiritual nature rather than me being a dumbass and not remembering cash.
Back at the hostel I showered and changed then went for grub and water. I also booked my return to Cuzco. It was then that I realized my iphone was missing. It took all the wind out of my sails but not for long. I had been high at the highest peak and now I was down in the valley....such is life. The most important things that I need are still with me (passport, debit card and camera). It´s almost easier now as I have nothing to protect or worry about. My backpack just has clothes now and if it gets stolen I could probably replace the whole lot for under 100 US.
I arrived back to Cuzco in the evening and went promplty for a massage and huge vegetarian meal. I feel so good at the moment. I was a little sick when I arrived last week but got on some antibiotics quickly and am over it now. Even though Cuzco is my first destination, I can safely say that it will be at the top of my list when peope ask about my experiences on this journey. This area is a must for anyone travelling to South America. I am forever changed, humbled and amazed!
More tips:
-if you are hiking up the mountain bring another shirt as the one you wear up will be drenched by the time you get up there.
-bring your passport and get a machu pichu stamp if you want
-bring water and snacks
-Other than that, do what I did. Go to Waynapichu on the second group and catch the sunrise at Puerto del Sol aka Intipunku
So, I started very early at Simon´s guesthouse where I was taken by cab to the bus stop and put into an English speaking tour of the Sacred Valley. The drive from Cuzco to Pisac (the first destination in the Sacred Valley) was incredible. The mountains are insane and then a beautiful valley appears out of no where. Everything can be grown here and because of the advanced agricutural science of the Inca´s there are many types of everything...potatoes, corn, dyes, etc. Sunday is a great day to visit Pisac as there is the tourist market (everyday of the week) and the local market (only a few days a week and largest on Sunday). Plus we were able to see people dressed in traditional clothes going to and from church. I grubbed a few delish empanadas and strolled around the market. I am making a concious effort not to by stuff this trip as it got a little out of control in SE Asia. That being said, there were a few things that had to be purchased for friends back home.
After Pisac we headed to Urumbaba for lunch (I had delish chicken soup aka caldo de gallo) and then to Ollantaytambo to explore the Inca Complex. It was incredible and I really enjoyed our tour guide. Not only had she told us many things while driving from Cuzco through the Sacred Valley but when we started walking around the complex in Ollantaytambo she was practially jumping with excitement as she told us about the Inca´s, their culture and the local area. It was also very nice because it is the rainy season so there are less tourists and everything is green and lush. There were dahlias and orchids everywhere. It was amazing and just as lush at Machu Picchu.
After touring the complex and allowing for a little Sacred Valley rain to fall upon me, we had some time to break for drinks and snacks. I sat at a table with an older Brazilian dude who was on tour. We started chatting and he told me that his son lives in Huntington Beach, CA and is a professional volleyball player. Yeah, he is from Sao Paulo and he is riding his motorcyle from there to his son in Cali...:WHA!? Oh, he is stopping in the Amazon to meet up with his other son who is kayaking down the Amazon...no biggie. This guy had many stories and was super cool to chat with.
At that point I split from the group and boarded a train to Agua Calientes. Agua Calientes is the closest town to Machu Picchu and the jump off for most people. Simon suggested a hostel for me to stay at which was amazing. It was cheap and I was the only one there. He also gave me advice on how to get up the mountain the best and what to see while up there. I retired early that night in preparation of having to get up at 3:30 AM to start the hike. I had everything laid out and when the alarm went off I jumped with excitement. Once I had stored my bag and locked myself out of the hostel, I realized a major fashion disaster...my zipper was broken..hahahahah...oh this is great!! The one day I want to be taking a ton of pictures and my fly is permanetly down....wtf...hahahah....oh well. I made it down to the gate/entrance about 30 minutes before it opened and started chatting with the peeps in line around me. There were only about 15 people in front of me. When the gate opened everyone crossed the bridge then started up the road. Simon specifically told me to look to the right as there are steps that are used to walk up to Machu Picchu. The road is for the buses and has tons of switchbacks. I broke off from the mass and headed for the steps. People started following me and the charge began. I felt the energy of the people behind me and the energy of the ruins above me. It was all I could do to keep my feet under my body as my head floated up the mountain. I reached the top in under 40 minutes (8km straight up hill) and was the seventh person in line. It was exhilerating. It was exhausting. It was amazingly special. I was drenched in sweat and had to remove my shirt and just wear my sweatshirt. Everyone one in that first group of 10 or so was super stoked to be up that early. We were all congratulating each other and sharing tips about what to do.
Simon told me to skip the guided tour at the beginning and head straight to the Portal of the Sun aka Intipunku. This is where the Inca trail enters the ruins and also where the classic postcard of Machu Picchu is shot. I didn´t realize that is was another 30 minute walk once inside the ruins. Since the people in front of me were all in a group, I was able to side step and literally be the first person into Machu Picchu...it took my breath away. There were two other guys who came up after me and we all decided to mash up to the sun portal. It was a trek but well worth it. Since they had to head back for the early entry to Waynapichu (Simon advised I do the later entry and was right on), we all took a few photos then they bounced....and I was all alone. Sitting there staring at the awesomeness of Machu Picchu, Waynapichu and the surrounding mountains was beyond words. I sat there for over an hour, meditating, doing yoga and staring in sheer amazement. I felt changed sitting up there. It is really beyond words but was so powerful to be there, alone, meditating and doing yoga while the sun rose and illuminated the area. I decided that it was time to head back down and that was the exact moment a group came around the bend...it was perfect.
I went back to the ruins and followed more of Simon´s instructions. Instead of siging up for a tour, I would just sit by a ruin, temple or hut and wait for a tour to come through. I would just eaves-drop in English and Spanish. Since there were so many tours it was easy to jump around and get all the info. Everything the Inca´s did was for a reason. The light from the sun shines through that window and into the eyes of a llama carved from stone to tell when they will start migrating. Light shines through this window for each Solstice...even that the river is the same shape as the Milky Way and therefore further evidence about how magical the area is. I was really stunned.
In my excitement to leave, I forgot to grab any snacks and only had a small bottle of water to drink before I started up the hill. I figured I would just buy some ridiculously expensive food up there in order to travel lighter up the hill. After touring the ruins, I desperatly needed some water and a snack. I walked down to the cafe area and looked at all the delicous food in the display. Mouth-watering, I walked up and ordered a sandwhich and huge bottle of water. It wasn´t until she rang me up did I realize that I hadn´t brough my wallet. Oh jeeeezus! I had planned to take the bus down as the hike up and around was exhausting but now I had to descend by foot. I realized that I could pay 1 sole and drink water in the bathroom so I hydrated and started walking down. It was amazing. There was a little rain and fog by the time I left. I felt completely satisfied with my experience up there. Even more satisfied than I thought I could be. I decided to look at it as a fast of a spiritual nature rather than me being a dumbass and not remembering cash.
Back at the hostel I showered and changed then went for grub and water. I also booked my return to Cuzco. It was then that I realized my iphone was missing. It took all the wind out of my sails but not for long. I had been high at the highest peak and now I was down in the valley....such is life. The most important things that I need are still with me (passport, debit card and camera). It´s almost easier now as I have nothing to protect or worry about. My backpack just has clothes now and if it gets stolen I could probably replace the whole lot for under 100 US.
I arrived back to Cuzco in the evening and went promplty for a massage and huge vegetarian meal. I feel so good at the moment. I was a little sick when I arrived last week but got on some antibiotics quickly and am over it now. Even though Cuzco is my first destination, I can safely say that it will be at the top of my list when peope ask about my experiences on this journey. This area is a must for anyone travelling to South America. I am forever changed, humbled and amazed!
More tips:
-if you are hiking up the mountain bring another shirt as the one you wear up will be drenched by the time you get up there.
-bring your passport and get a machu pichu stamp if you want
-bring water and snacks
-Other than that, do what I did. Go to Waynapichu on the second group and catch the sunrise at Puerto del Sol aka Intipunku
Arrival to Cuzco!
Wow, well here we are again for another adventure. It was hard to leave home this time as I didn´t feel like I had enough time to kick it with my friends and family but I kept telling myself that it is only 4 months and then I will be home again. As much as I love travelling, I think after this year out and about I will be ready to settle down a bit. Don´t get me wrong, this is the life but I miss my friends and family so much that it is sometimes hard to enjoy wherever I am at. Also, this is the first time I am travelling solo which is cool and scary at the same time.
After a full 25 hours of travel which included 5 hours trying to sleep on the floor at the Lima airport I arrived to Cuzco. Since no one I spoke with had anything nice to say about Lima, I decided to skip it and go straight to the heart of the country. I landed about 7AM and searched around Plaza de Armas for a cheap place to crash. The plaza is the center of town and also very beautiful. That first day was tough. No sleep combined with being sick caused me to spiral into a place where I was questioning what the hell I am doing here all alone for the next 4 months. There are people back home I love who I want to share these moments with and here I am all alone. I didn´t pànic as I knew that this feeling would pass and it did after a solid sleep and some food. The first day I slept and walked around a bit trying to catch my breath and get acclimated to the altitude. After dining on Alpaca steak for dinner I decided to check out the nightlife. I went to a bar called Frog´s and sat by myself in a corner trying to pull myself together. 3 Chilean dudes waved me over to their table and we began chatting. They don´t speak English so it was my horrible Spanish (its not that bad but isn´t where I want it to be) and hand signals that lead the conversation. These cats are super cool. Young college students on vacation for a few weeks. We bar hopped a little before I had to call it a night.
The following day I decided to walk up the hill to Saqsaywaman which are ruins overlooking Cuzco. On my way up I started chatting with a dude who offered a horse ride to more ruins around the area and I accepted. It was super fun to be a Caballero for a day and it was just me and the guide who only spoke Spanish. A few hours later I was left to explore the ruins on my own and also walked up to the white jesus which overlooks the city as well. It was a beautiful day. For lunch I decided to go with the traditional chicharon (fried pork) and inka cola (most similar to vanilla cream soda mixed with an energy drink). By this time I started to figure out the routine. After the hike up the mountain and horseback riding I came home for a siesta then went to dinner around 10PM. Shortly after I ran into my Chilean homies and we continued our research of the nightlife. We started at a Chupeteria which is a shot bar. While there we struck up conversation with some international (Germany, Holland, France and Denmark) kids who have been studying Spanish here for a few weeks. They told us which spots to go to and when so after a few shots we headed to the next venue. The most cracking clubs are located on the Plaza and we had a blast. Everyone is super friendly, the music is great and the beer is delish! I can safely say that dancing is a great way to get acclimated and we tore the floor up until the wee hours of the morning.
The following day I decided to find the best Cuy in Cuzco. A few locals that I spoke with told me that I had to go to Tipon for that so I headed out not knowing where or what Tipon is. I actually thought it was a restaurant in the city but it turns out that it IS a city about 45 minutes from town by bus. It was a super fun adventure and great way to see the area. When I arrived at Tipon it became apparent why I was sent there. Almost 50 restaurants specializing in Cuy lined the streets. I got off the bus and started looking for the most authentic place. A older woman dressed in traditional wear approached me and asked if I wanted the best Cuy in Tipon...HELL YES! She led me down the street then up an alley to her restaurant where I was the only gringo. Cuy is guinea pig by the way. The plate arrived with the whole cuy stretched out, head and all. The woman cut it into pieces for me and left me to explore the food. There was a stuffed pepper on the plate that was insanely hot but delish along with a few potatoes and some pasta. It was a great meal but I don´t think I will be eating cuy again. As I did the day before, I came home for a siesta then headed out for dinner around 10. Since it was Friday night we all knew it was going to be major. I ran into the Chileans again and we started our pub crawl. Super fun dudes and super fun times. The music was classic club tunes (stuff that we played in the states a few years ago) and bumping all night. I made some great friends last night. A few dudes from Florida that are doing a documentary here, a group of Aussies and Brits that were raging their faces off and some very cute girls! I am going to try to link up with the Aussie/Brit group as it seems they know how to do it and are heading the same direction I am (towards Puno for the Festival de la Candelaria). I still need to do the Sacred Valley and Machu Pichu before I leave so I may do that tomorrow and the next day or possibly push it back a little.
I met two very colorful ex-pats here that were super helpful. Simon and Tim. Simon was the guide for the Brit/Aussie group I met at the bar. He is a South African that is married to a Peruvian and has been living here for over 15 years. After meeting him at the bar I asked if we could connect the next day so I could plye him for info about the Sacred Valley and Machu Pichu. The guy was super cool. I brought him one of my major mixes and we started chatting. As you will see in the next chapter, his information was invaluable. If you are coming to Peru, get in touch with him at simonmgap@yahoo.com or by his cell at (084) 974-790411. He has given me hookups in Puno and beyond. He is an amazing resource and very cool dude.
Tim is from New Mexico. He has been here for 10 years and lives with a beautiful Peruvian woman (couldn´t tell if they were married or not). After about 5 minutes of chatting he brought me back to his house and showed me some amazing artifacts and various things. He is an old ´dead head´and kinda plays that part well. His prices were a little higher than Simon´s but he is a cool guy and full of good info on places to eat and see while there. Shousecalls@yahoo.com or 957-728510.
Nuts and Bolts:
-I stayed at Las Caceres on Plateros around the corner from Mama Africa for 20 Soles a night. Most hostels I checked out were at least 30 for a dorm room. I had my own room and shared bathroom. This was the best deal I found near the plaza.
-Ate the local cuisine of Cuy, Chicharon and Alpaca along with local drinks of Mate de Coca and Inka Cola...along with all the local beers and pisco drinks!
-Checked out the ruins near town along with the cathedrals and mueseums.
-There is a great veggie restaurant on Tigre, Los Perros has an amazing burger (kinda pricey), Jacks is a great place for food.
-We spent most time at Mythology but also were at Mama Africa, InkaTeam and the other clubs located around the plaza.
After a full 25 hours of travel which included 5 hours trying to sleep on the floor at the Lima airport I arrived to Cuzco. Since no one I spoke with had anything nice to say about Lima, I decided to skip it and go straight to the heart of the country. I landed about 7AM and searched around Plaza de Armas for a cheap place to crash. The plaza is the center of town and also very beautiful. That first day was tough. No sleep combined with being sick caused me to spiral into a place where I was questioning what the hell I am doing here all alone for the next 4 months. There are people back home I love who I want to share these moments with and here I am all alone. I didn´t pànic as I knew that this feeling would pass and it did after a solid sleep and some food. The first day I slept and walked around a bit trying to catch my breath and get acclimated to the altitude. After dining on Alpaca steak for dinner I decided to check out the nightlife. I went to a bar called Frog´s and sat by myself in a corner trying to pull myself together. 3 Chilean dudes waved me over to their table and we began chatting. They don´t speak English so it was my horrible Spanish (its not that bad but isn´t where I want it to be) and hand signals that lead the conversation. These cats are super cool. Young college students on vacation for a few weeks. We bar hopped a little before I had to call it a night.
The following day I decided to walk up the hill to Saqsaywaman which are ruins overlooking Cuzco. On my way up I started chatting with a dude who offered a horse ride to more ruins around the area and I accepted. It was super fun to be a Caballero for a day and it was just me and the guide who only spoke Spanish. A few hours later I was left to explore the ruins on my own and also walked up to the white jesus which overlooks the city as well. It was a beautiful day. For lunch I decided to go with the traditional chicharon (fried pork) and inka cola (most similar to vanilla cream soda mixed with an energy drink). By this time I started to figure out the routine. After the hike up the mountain and horseback riding I came home for a siesta then went to dinner around 10PM. Shortly after I ran into my Chilean homies and we continued our research of the nightlife. We started at a Chupeteria which is a shot bar. While there we struck up conversation with some international (Germany, Holland, France and Denmark) kids who have been studying Spanish here for a few weeks. They told us which spots to go to and when so after a few shots we headed to the next venue. The most cracking clubs are located on the Plaza and we had a blast. Everyone is super friendly, the music is great and the beer is delish! I can safely say that dancing is a great way to get acclimated and we tore the floor up until the wee hours of the morning.
The following day I decided to find the best Cuy in Cuzco. A few locals that I spoke with told me that I had to go to Tipon for that so I headed out not knowing where or what Tipon is. I actually thought it was a restaurant in the city but it turns out that it IS a city about 45 minutes from town by bus. It was a super fun adventure and great way to see the area. When I arrived at Tipon it became apparent why I was sent there. Almost 50 restaurants specializing in Cuy lined the streets. I got off the bus and started looking for the most authentic place. A older woman dressed in traditional wear approached me and asked if I wanted the best Cuy in Tipon...HELL YES! She led me down the street then up an alley to her restaurant where I was the only gringo. Cuy is guinea pig by the way. The plate arrived with the whole cuy stretched out, head and all. The woman cut it into pieces for me and left me to explore the food. There was a stuffed pepper on the plate that was insanely hot but delish along with a few potatoes and some pasta. It was a great meal but I don´t think I will be eating cuy again. As I did the day before, I came home for a siesta then headed out for dinner around 10. Since it was Friday night we all knew it was going to be major. I ran into the Chileans again and we started our pub crawl. Super fun dudes and super fun times. The music was classic club tunes (stuff that we played in the states a few years ago) and bumping all night. I made some great friends last night. A few dudes from Florida that are doing a documentary here, a group of Aussies and Brits that were raging their faces off and some very cute girls! I am going to try to link up with the Aussie/Brit group as it seems they know how to do it and are heading the same direction I am (towards Puno for the Festival de la Candelaria). I still need to do the Sacred Valley and Machu Pichu before I leave so I may do that tomorrow and the next day or possibly push it back a little.
I met two very colorful ex-pats here that were super helpful. Simon and Tim. Simon was the guide for the Brit/Aussie group I met at the bar. He is a South African that is married to a Peruvian and has been living here for over 15 years. After meeting him at the bar I asked if we could connect the next day so I could plye him for info about the Sacred Valley and Machu Pichu. The guy was super cool. I brought him one of my major mixes and we started chatting. As you will see in the next chapter, his information was invaluable. If you are coming to Peru, get in touch with him at simonmgap@yahoo.com or by his cell at (084) 974-790411. He has given me hookups in Puno and beyond. He is an amazing resource and very cool dude.
Tim is from New Mexico. He has been here for 10 years and lives with a beautiful Peruvian woman (couldn´t tell if they were married or not). After about 5 minutes of chatting he brought me back to his house and showed me some amazing artifacts and various things. He is an old ´dead head´and kinda plays that part well. His prices were a little higher than Simon´s but he is a cool guy and full of good info on places to eat and see while there. Shousecalls@yahoo.com or 957-728510.
Nuts and Bolts:
-I stayed at Las Caceres on Plateros around the corner from Mama Africa for 20 Soles a night. Most hostels I checked out were at least 30 for a dorm room. I had my own room and shared bathroom. This was the best deal I found near the plaza.
-Ate the local cuisine of Cuy, Chicharon and Alpaca along with local drinks of Mate de Coca and Inka Cola...along with all the local beers and pisco drinks!
-Checked out the ruins near town along with the cathedrals and mueseums.
-There is a great veggie restaurant on Tigre, Los Perros has an amazing burger (kinda pricey), Jacks is a great place for food.
-We spent most time at Mythology but also were at Mama Africa, InkaTeam and the other clubs located around the plaza.
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