Dios Mio!! These last two days have changed my life. I can´t begin to say how special the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu are. It is no surprise the Inca´s considered this area the navel of Mother Earth. I am so enchanted, humbled and awe-struck by the Inca culture. Their ability to live with the Earth is something Western culture coud definetly learn from.
So, I started very early at Simon´s guesthouse where I was taken by cab to the bus stop and put into an English speaking tour of the Sacred Valley. The drive from Cuzco to Pisac (the first destination in the Sacred Valley) was incredible. The mountains are insane and then a beautiful valley appears out of no where. Everything can be grown here and because of the advanced agricutural science of the Inca´s there are many types of everything...potatoes, corn, dyes, etc. Sunday is a great day to visit Pisac as there is the tourist market (everyday of the week) and the local market (only a few days a week and largest on Sunday). Plus we were able to see people dressed in traditional clothes going to and from church. I grubbed a few delish empanadas and strolled around the market. I am making a concious effort not to by stuff this trip as it got a little out of control in SE Asia. That being said, there were a few things that had to be purchased for friends back home.
After Pisac we headed to Urumbaba for lunch (I had delish chicken soup aka caldo de gallo) and then to Ollantaytambo to explore the Inca Complex. It was incredible and I really enjoyed our tour guide. Not only had she told us many things while driving from Cuzco through the Sacred Valley but when we started walking around the complex in Ollantaytambo she was practially jumping with excitement as she told us about the Inca´s, their culture and the local area. It was also very nice because it is the rainy season so there are less tourists and everything is green and lush. There were dahlias and orchids everywhere. It was amazing and just as lush at Machu Picchu.
After touring the complex and allowing for a little Sacred Valley rain to fall upon me, we had some time to break for drinks and snacks. I sat at a table with an older Brazilian dude who was on tour. We started chatting and he told me that his son lives in Huntington Beach, CA and is a professional volleyball player. Yeah, he is from Sao Paulo and he is riding his motorcyle from there to his son in Cali...:WHA!? Oh, he is stopping in the Amazon to meet up with his other son who is kayaking down the Amazon...no biggie. This guy had many stories and was super cool to chat with.
At that point I split from the group and boarded a train to Agua Calientes. Agua Calientes is the closest town to Machu Picchu and the jump off for most people. Simon suggested a hostel for me to stay at which was amazing. It was cheap and I was the only one there. He also gave me advice on how to get up the mountain the best and what to see while up there. I retired early that night in preparation of having to get up at 3:30 AM to start the hike. I had everything laid out and when the alarm went off I jumped with excitement. Once I had stored my bag and locked myself out of the hostel, I realized a major fashion disaster...my zipper was broken..hahahahah...oh this is great!! The one day I want to be taking a ton of pictures and my fly is permanetly down....wtf...hahahah....oh well. I made it down to the gate/entrance about 30 minutes before it opened and started chatting with the peeps in line around me. There were only about 15 people in front of me. When the gate opened everyone crossed the bridge then started up the road. Simon specifically told me to look to the right as there are steps that are used to walk up to Machu Picchu. The road is for the buses and has tons of switchbacks. I broke off from the mass and headed for the steps. People started following me and the charge began. I felt the energy of the people behind me and the energy of the ruins above me. It was all I could do to keep my feet under my body as my head floated up the mountain. I reached the top in under 40 minutes (8km straight up hill) and was the seventh person in line. It was exhilerating. It was exhausting. It was amazingly special. I was drenched in sweat and had to remove my shirt and just wear my sweatshirt. Everyone one in that first group of 10 or so was super stoked to be up that early. We were all congratulating each other and sharing tips about what to do.
Simon told me to skip the guided tour at the beginning and head straight to the Portal of the Sun aka Intipunku. This is where the Inca trail enters the ruins and also where the classic postcard of Machu Picchu is shot. I didn´t realize that is was another 30 minute walk once inside the ruins. Since the people in front of me were all in a group, I was able to side step and literally be the first person into Machu Picchu...it took my breath away. There were two other guys who came up after me and we all decided to mash up to the sun portal. It was a trek but well worth it. Since they had to head back for the early entry to Waynapichu (Simon advised I do the later entry and was right on), we all took a few photos then they bounced....and I was all alone. Sitting there staring at the awesomeness of Machu Picchu, Waynapichu and the surrounding mountains was beyond words. I sat there for over an hour, meditating, doing yoga and staring in sheer amazement. I felt changed sitting up there. It is really beyond words but was so powerful to be there, alone, meditating and doing yoga while the sun rose and illuminated the area. I decided that it was time to head back down and that was the exact moment a group came around the bend...it was perfect.
I went back to the ruins and followed more of Simon´s instructions. Instead of siging up for a tour, I would just sit by a ruin, temple or hut and wait for a tour to come through. I would just eaves-drop in English and Spanish. Since there were so many tours it was easy to jump around and get all the info. Everything the Inca´s did was for a reason. The light from the sun shines through that window and into the eyes of a llama carved from stone to tell when they will start migrating. Light shines through this window for each Solstice...even that the river is the same shape as the Milky Way and therefore further evidence about how magical the area is. I was really stunned.
In my excitement to leave, I forgot to grab any snacks and only had a small bottle of water to drink before I started up the hill. I figured I would just buy some ridiculously expensive food up there in order to travel lighter up the hill. After touring the ruins, I desperatly needed some water and a snack. I walked down to the cafe area and looked at all the delicous food in the display. Mouth-watering, I walked up and ordered a sandwhich and huge bottle of water. It wasn´t until she rang me up did I realize that I hadn´t brough my wallet. Oh jeeeezus! I had planned to take the bus down as the hike up and around was exhausting but now I had to descend by foot. I realized that I could pay 1 sole and drink water in the bathroom so I hydrated and started walking down. It was amazing. There was a little rain and fog by the time I left. I felt completely satisfied with my experience up there. Even more satisfied than I thought I could be. I decided to look at it as a fast of a spiritual nature rather than me being a dumbass and not remembering cash.
Back at the hostel I showered and changed then went for grub and water. I also booked my return to Cuzco. It was then that I realized my iphone was missing. It took all the wind out of my sails but not for long. I had been high at the highest peak and now I was down in the valley....such is life. The most important things that I need are still with me (passport, debit card and camera). It´s almost easier now as I have nothing to protect or worry about. My backpack just has clothes now and if it gets stolen I could probably replace the whole lot for under 100 US.
I arrived back to Cuzco in the evening and went promplty for a massage and huge vegetarian meal. I feel so good at the moment. I was a little sick when I arrived last week but got on some antibiotics quickly and am over it now. Even though Cuzco is my first destination, I can safely say that it will be at the top of my list when peope ask about my experiences on this journey. This area is a must for anyone travelling to South America. I am forever changed, humbled and amazed!
More tips:
-if you are hiking up the mountain bring another shirt as the one you wear up will be drenched by the time you get up there.
-bring your passport and get a machu pichu stamp if you want
-bring water and snacks
-Other than that, do what I did. Go to Waynapichu on the second group and catch the sunrise at Puerto del Sol aka Intipunku
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